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Item Posts    Sort Order

Sheared distributor gear

 
Foxbody93
New User
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 05/24/11 07:55 PM

I have a 93 lx with a 331.  It has all msd ignition and ive been having an issue with it stuttering when it gets warm and popping in the exhaust like the timing was wrong.  Before it gets warm car runs very strong with no hesitation.  Other night it died on me out of nowhere.  Diagnosing i found the distributor gear had teeth sheared off. Ive heard some people saying they have had this issue with high volume oil pumps ( I have a melling high volume).  I talked to msd tech support and they say it could be that when i did the 331 swap i didnt break in distributor gear to cam with proper oil.  Engine builder said to break engine in with a straight 30 so thats what i did.  Msd says cam gear needs a straight 5 weight.  Whats your thoughts on any of this?  Also i am using same cam and distributor that i was using before the 331 swap and there was no problem before.  And it is a steel gear on distributor.  Any help and experiences is appreciated.  Thanks.  

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waynep7122
User
Posts: 194
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 05/25/11 05:11 AM

a few things to start..

did you break the teeth off.. or wear them down till they are thin and the thin part broke???

brass gears are sacrificial ... they wear out  to save the cam gear...

cast iron gears need to run with cast iron cams.. usually non roller cams... (non machined areas are rough)

steel gears need to run with steel cams.. usually roller cams..  ( completely machined, no rough casting areas)

there are i think now plastic gears available..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

can you shine a bright light down the opening in the block and examine the gear on the cam???

do you have a oil pump priming tool set????





OEM/1/4 Ford Oil Pump Primer
Part Number: 27061
Alternate Part Number: AZ997

OEM/5/16 Ford Oil Pump Primer
Part Number: 27062
Alternate Part Number: AZ998

can you run this with a variable speed electric drill to check for load on the oil pump?????

i have used a speed handle on a locking extension  with various sockets on the end so i could get a good feel of the oil pump...    as i spin the speed handle..   holding the long extension and spinning a ratchet can give you an idea also..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

if your gear at full thickness just broke... i would look at replacing the oil pump.. or making sure that nothing fell into the distributer..   i have had the oil pump shaft seize on other models of fords.. usually 351C and M and 400 M.. motors where for some reason the oil pump shaft where it sticks through the top of the oil pump housing seizes .. ripping the gear teeth off.. looking like the timing chain went as the dist shaft no longer turns when you crank the engine...  

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waynep7122
User
Posts: 194
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 05/25/11 05:17 AM

oh.. why check the oil pump...    remember.. its working with UNFILTERED oil..   only screened oil..  i have found tiny bits of metal and other debris that get between the pump lobes and locks it up..  

you might really want to stop by a radio shack.. or other store.. pick up some tiny rare earth magnets..    shove them with a brass tool into the oil pan  when the drain plug is out..  this will attract any metal particles to it... hold them tight till you drop the pan and wonder ... who put the magnets in here..     wow.. what a great idea..    there are also magnetic drain plugs..

they don't usually come with the strongest rare earth magnets..  

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Foxbody93
New User
Posts: 7
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 05/25/11 08:50 PM

the gear broke.  marks on gear showed proper alignment as well.  It is the correct steel gear.  I can prime the pump.  When i primed it there was enough pressure to make a battery operated drill and electric drill smoke.  there cheap drills but they were being stressed.  I have never primed an engine before this one so i have never felt what a normal pumps resistance.  Is this weird?    Also engine builder said to use 10w40 oil.  Is this too thick?.  From what i could see gear on cam was not damaged.  Car currently has a stock distributor in it and did start and run normal, or at least idle normal.  

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waynep7122
User
Posts: 194
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 05/26/11 09:58 PM

sorry for the long response time.  

take the oil filter off.. see if the pump works freely... pumping serious amounts of oil out..

cut the filter cover off..  use care to not damage the element .. as you want to inspect it..

if the filter media broke up it can block the oil galleys into the motor..

this is rare to happen.. but not unheard of..  it can block any of the passages..

Filtercloggedmains

i will have to dig around.. look for an oiling diagram  for which ever motor you have..   i don't know if you can also check for pump flow at the oil pressure sending unit..

cutting the filter can off.. and examining the element will let you know if you have a problem..  

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waynep7122
User
Posts: 194
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 05/26/11 10:00 PM

oil flow goes from the pump to the filter.. then to the rest of the motor..

i have also found the oil filters totally clogged with additives...  arco graphite motor oil  was good at clogging some brands of oil filters..  i was even saving a quart of arco graphite motor oil... until some body picked it up and put it in their motor..


follow the path...

pan...pickup ... pump .. block.. filter back into the block.. ......

Smallblockfordoilingdiagram  

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waynep7122
User
Posts: 194
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 05/26/11 10:14 PM

looking at the picture..  the oil as it leaves the filter goes into the same passage behind the oil pressure switch..  

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