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problems shifting gears after replacing clutch

 
jackowski
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Posts: 7
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/05/12 06:48 PM

i have a 85GT with a Borg Warner T5, i replaced the entire clutch assembly and it is hanging up when shifting gears (not grinding) just not shifting in and out smoothly . i can stop and hold the clutch to the floor and left off the breaks and everything is normal it doesnt lunge but up on jack stands with the clutch pushed to the floor the wheels spin like the clutch is slightly engaged im pretty sure the adjustment on the fork in the bell housing is at max or slightly less than max travel and i also am not able to pull the clutch pedal upwards for the auto adjuster because it is as far up as it can go the clutch pedal feel slightly mushier than youd expect too please help Confused  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 96
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/06/12 06:43 AM

did you surface the flywheel ????

i am taking that you replaced the clutch cover if it was worn..  worn as in the pressure plate was NO LONGER flat..  or any of a dozen other problems to require its replacement..

have you examined the clutch quadrant on the clutch pedal..

0900C15280086d3e

it really sounds like the clutch is not totally disengaging..  because of lack of travel of the clutch release components..

either the clutch pedal is worn.. could be at the pivot also.. or the pivot broken away..

the quadrant as shown above..

the firewall can crack where the cable casing sticks through..

the cable could be damaged or stretching ..

too much material machined off the flywheel moves it far enough away from the throw out bearing that it can give you problems..

and the last. but not the least issue.. excessive crank end play..  where the crank moves forward as you depress the clutch pedal.. i have seen engines with almost a quarter inch of movement.. do to thrust bearing failure. and crank wear..  

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jackowski
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Posts: 7
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/07/12 09:29 AM

yea it was resurfaced for what looked to be the first time while it was out, it could be possible that my cable is stretched but im going to start with the quadrant because last night while messing with it it cought my eye that the clutch pedal was sitting way forward compared to the break and throttle pedal but im not really sure how to adjust that. how far is the clutch fork suppost to travel in the opening in the side of the bell housing with the pedal pressed to the floor there appears to be about a half inch of room left that it could travel if adjusted?  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 96
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/07/12 05:24 PM

there are several articles you might want to read..

see the search window above right.      type in the word..    quadrant..

there are a bunch of articles spread out in the 4 ford and mustang magazines.. and probably 5 or 6 more in the over 50 on this site..

check where the CABLE casing goes through the firewall..     there is a way to adjust the quadrant..

usually releasing the latch so the slack is let out.. this lets the pedal all the way up.. then close the latch ...   this restores full motion to the pedal..   if the pedal is NOT at the top... you won't have enough movement at the throw out fork to fully release the clutch...

please use care to verify the quadrant is properly locked.. before trying it after the adjustment..  

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jackowski
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Posts: 7
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/08/12 08:30 AM

I'm pretty sure the quadrant is malfunctioning and my cable is frayed and appears to be stretched so between all of those I'm sure that's enough to cause problems. I am ordering a adjustae cable/quadrant kit from summit I'm thinking that will help I'll let you know how that goes  

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pepsi1
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Posts: 39
Joined: 01/12
Posted: 04/18/12 04:26 AM

Icon Quotejackowski:
i have a 85GT with a Borg Warner T5, i replaced the entire clutch assembly and it is hanging up when shifting gears (not grinding) just not shifting in and out smoothly . i can stop and hold the clutch to the floor and left off the breaks and everything is normal it doesnt lunge but up on jack stands with the clutch pushed to the floor the wheels spin like the clutch is slightly engaged im pretty sure the adjustment on the fork in the bell housing is at max or slightly less than max travel and i also am not able to pull the clutch pedal upwards for the auto adjuster because it is as far up as it can go the clutch pedal feel slightly mushier than youd expect too please help Confused

If you didnt align that clutch properly or there isn't enough clearance between the clutch and flywheeel those shifting problems will happen...Theres the pronlem the hydraulics is not letting the clutch to fully release Grin  Cool

Try this once you get that cylinder bled....Try just riding the clutch a little until you smell clutch lining then let it cool..Sometime there are high spots on the clutch that cause that....If you bought an OTC from a parts store good luck with it... Cool  

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jackowski
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Posts: 7
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/26/12 02:22 PM

Its cable driven not hydraulic and I have since installed an adjustable cable as well as replaced the quadrant with a billet aluminum one but still having issues. With the cable fully adjusted it shifts great... but the clutch slips under heavy acceleration. With the cable adjusted loose and with a lot of slack it grabs great but shifts like arss I've adjusted it both ways and can't find a happy medium  

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jackowski
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Posts: 7
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/26/12 02:33 PM

I am now hearing the throw out bearing raise hell so its obvious I've done something terribly wrong so out comes the trans again details to follow...  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 96
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 04/26/12 05:20 PM

can you have a friend work the clutch pedal up and down..  while you observe the firewall where the casing is held.. make sure its NOT flexing there...

can you make sure that the clutch and brake pedal pivot point has not broken loose in the brace under the dash board between the booster mounting point and the dash board..

91Mustang50clutchpedal


this should be done before you drop the transmission...

i am  taking that you also replaced the cable..  

is there a return spring on the clutch fork.. to pull it away from the cable ..


91Mustang50clutch  

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pepsi1
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Posts: 39
Joined: 01/12
Posted: 05/01/12 11:01 PM

I wouldn't purchase a clutch from a parts store, I would have purchased a high quality clutch assy from Ram or Ford. OTC stuff sometimes creates more problems then its worth...  

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pepsi1
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Posts: 39
Joined: 01/12
Posted: 05/03/12 09:39 AM

jackowski

Did you install a new fly wheel?
If not did you have the old one resurfaced?
If so did you clean it really good?
Question did you replace the pilot bushing?  

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jackowski
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Posts: 7
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 05/08/12 05:13 PM

i will check the firewall for flexing but i seriously dont think that this is the case. the cable, quadrant, fork, pressure plate and throw out bearing where all replaced. i will also check the clutch and brake pedal pivot point  

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jackowski
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Posted: 05/08/12 05:15 PM

i did have it resurfaced but did not take any special care in cleaning it prior to re-installation.  

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pepsi1
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Posts: 39
Joined: 01/12
Posted: 05/12/12 10:01 PM

Jackowski:

If the fire wall isn't flexing look in this place. You will need a helper! Have the engine running, Have him/her depress the clutch pedal, if you can see the crankshaft pulley the damper. While working the clutch see if you can see movement in the crankshaft, moving with the action of the clutch being pushed in/out.

My buddy had a repair shop many moons ago. He had 1969 350/modified small block.In a nice Chevelle. He couldn't get the clutch to work properly. He put a second clutch assy. in it. Still the same thing. If you double clutched it, it worked fine. But this thing drove him crazy....I was watching the the firewall for flex, bla,bla,bla. It had a Z-Bar that really never touched the firewall.

Now back then we didn't have hydraulic assist clutches. He's pushing the clutch in and I see the crank shaft moving. I took the belts off and, Holy Chit that crank was moving about a 1/4" that I could see. I had him look at it and he couldn't believe it either. The HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH that was in it, wore the engine thrust bearing out! That was the first time I saw something like that and never forgot it. It's rare it will do that today,but never say never. I saw one similar to that some years after that,but that was the strangest thing I ever saw.

I put a rear main thrust bearing in it and the other main bearings, the problem was solved. I measured the crank end play and set it up and it was fine. The crank thrust surfaces were fine. The woman that owned it said she heard a clunking sound when she stepped on the clutch, but it was there for such a long time so it didn't bother her.... True story and I'm sticking to it....

Bob  

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