Hi Guys

I own a '66 Mustang Convertible.
Under my car is a plate with (6)six bolts.
Three (3) or one side of this plate and (3) three on the other side.

This plate seems to have a couple of names. To better understand my situation here's the names
1. Cross Over Plate
2. Cross Member Plate
3. Reinforcement Plate  (That's all of 'em)

Now the only thing I can say to explain it a little bit better is; the driver shaft runs over this plate. It likes creates a tunnel type effect. That's the best I can do guys about where it is and what it is.

Big Problem: These (6)six bolts are rusted/welded in position. They ain't moving.
There over-head too. So I really can't get penertrating oil to stay up into the bolt(s)

I broke (2( two already.

What on earth can you guys tell me how to get those suckers out of there.
I know about drill and tap/drill and easy out.
What about somekind of heat and then drill and tap or easy-out ?

HELP  

THANKS GUYS
GOD BLESS

Schooner    

That's going to be a tough one Schooner...

I would recommend heating the area around the bolt (not the bolt itself) and then try to remove the bolt with a solid six point socket, maybe even use an impact gun to break the remaining bolts free.

As for the ones already broken, your best bet is to drill out the broken bolt and cut/chase the threads. Worst case scenario you'll have to weld a new nut into the floor if the threads are damaged beyond use. Good luck with the repairs!

Mark  

Hi Mark

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner I was dancing around with those terrible bolts. I found out their name(s)
CROSS OVER PLATE BOLTS (6) of them.

Problem Now Is: Yeah I broke off the rest of 'em (4) and (2) were already broken.
I don't know how to explain this but I'm going to try.

What was showing as I lay on my back looking upward was: a large washer and bolt. I put my wrench around that 1966 Forn Mustang Convertible bolt and twisted and turned and spit on it and low and behole the darn thing broke-off. I soaked it and waited, soaked the bolt head and wait and broke it too.

Now I was look at what seemed a broken bolt into what seem a threaded hole. Just like a bolt goes into a screw.
I drilled and drilled and drill thru that hardened steel bolt got feed-up and start hitting it with a steel punch and hammer and BANGO the broken bolt and what seemed a little washer went right thru the hole into the upper reinforement pan.

Now it really gets interesting:
I banged all the broken bolts thru their holes and two (2) of what pieces of something I've NEVER SEEN before fall out of the hole.
Here's the best way I can describe it:
Its a NUT I never seen before. Look at a time clock imagin for a moment
From: 8PM to 4PM the NUT IS ROUND.
From: 4PM to 8PM its SQUARE.
So you can lay this nut standing straight up on the FLAT PART. Its almost like a Half Moon like this (| round side flat side.

All this in hidden up into the reinforcement pan.
I really don't know how I'm going to replace this special nut and bolt. Due to the fact I can't get into the seat pan and the reinforcement pan without CUTTING INTO TO IT.

That's it guy(s) If any you guys have any ideas, I open to whatever you got. And if I have to cut into the pans: What's The Best Way.

Thank you all for you patient with this NEWBIE
GOD BLESS

Schooner    

Well the good news is you got the floor support off right?  

What exactly are you doing to your convertible? Are the floor pans solid? Is the full interior in it? I'm asking because I don't want to go into detail about welding a nut in place if you're replacing the whole floor or seat riser anyway...

I see it as two basic options. Weld a nut to a large flat washer and place the assembly nut first into the hole in your floor and then weld the washer to the floor pan. Do this for all six holes and when you bolt the reinforcement back on your want even see the washers you've installed.

The other option is to remove the front seats and carpet and remove the seat riser to access the holes from the inside. The seat riser is only spot welded to the floor and once you drill out those spot welds you can access the complete floor pan for replacement of the threaded inserts/nuts and then reinstall the seat riser.

Good luck with your repairs...

Mark  

Hey Mark

Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner.However, I've been dancing with all kinds of cutting rusty floor pans away,Cutting out the inner rocker panel up too the seat raiser ~ Whew!!!

Mark here's what's happening. My '66 Convert is down to no seats/steering wheel/tranny & motor is out of the car.

The motor has been bored-out .030ths. all preped and waiting to be put together in the engine bay.

However, way before that happens. I got 2
take all the under-coating out of the engine bay so I may paint it the same color of my car ( Tahoe Turquoise ).

What happening right now is: Both raiser seat pans (where my seats are connected 2)
are still connected to the Inner Rocker Panels. With both my doors off the car I read the convertibles WILL SAG if not supported and you'll have a wonderfully hard time getting the door back properly.

So I bought a $200.00 brace and hooked it up on both doors. And its really very,very strong. If my car door areas sag I'll burn my car right in my garage . . . lol

Its really a very good set-up. Now back to my novel about what this NEWBIE is doing at present.
I don't want to cut away the rest of the Inner Rocker Panel(s) due to the FACT:
The Cross Over Plate that was connected to both Reinforcement pans under the car is out of the car. I just finished taking all the undercoating from it and sprey it with: Etching Primer. I must say the Plate looks really GREAT.

All this is leading up to those darn bolts I broke-off that was holding the CrossOver Plate. I didn't want to get into the how of how I got that mess all cleared-up. However, if you want to know and you have a convertible I'd be happy to take you step-by-step so you don't have to go thru the PAIN I did to release those NUTS & BOLTS.

Onward I go with what's going on today 7/18/'07 I have to prepare the underside of the car in order to re-connect the newly constructed Cross Over Plate. By the way I bought all GRADE 8 Bolts/Nuts & Washer for the re-connect GRADE 8 is best I'm told from its tensil strength and to be used in automoble restorations.

I had to cut open the seat raiser above in order to see what the heck was going on with the Nut(s) that was holding those broken bolts. O.K. now I have complete acess to the Reinforcemnet Pan from the inside.

What I must do this week GOD WILLING. Is to mig weld the Grade8 Washers & Nuts to the inside over the holes where the broken bolts where. To BETTER the job now after all that, in the future if I want to paint the entire underside of my car.

I just have to un-do the bolts from under the car and the CrossOver Plate will be released. Due to the fact that the Nuts are mig welded to the inside of the Reinforcement Pan ~ WHEW man that's it !

Mark I hope I didn't BORE you with all of this ?

Let me know what other question(s) or suggestions you might have.

Take care
GOD BLESS YOU

Ray