Who makes the best disc brake conversion kit? I want single piston calipers, and a 7 inch dual diaphram booster(for clearance of tall valve covers). Thanks in advance.  

Ok, I'll re-word. Does any one have any brand preferences to disc brake conversion kits? My 67 Fairlane is now manual drum setup. Thanks!  

The regular "granada" conversion works as well as anything.  Single piston, floating caliper, 11" rotor, parts at any store.

Master Power has some nice kits and power brake options.  

Have you,or anyone else, used anything from Absolute Power Brakes. That may not be the exact name, but it is close. I thought about buying used parts here and there to put original 4 piston caliper set up on the car, but, everything else is going to be new/rebuilt.
I like the idea of buying a new kit with a warranty. Not only foe the warranty, but all will be matched and work well together.  

I have heard the Granada conversion does not fit perfectly and can cause problems. Is there any merit to that statement?  

I've converted three vehicles personally and never had a problem.  The only issues I had to science out were re-routing the brake hard lines and 14" wheel clearance with the caliper.  The calipers have the hose coming out so that it comes to the frame rail "backwards" from the drum hose.  I ditched my hard lines back the the first junction or the distribution block and replaced with #3 Russell braided brake hose.  14" wheels may require some grinding on the caliper for clearance - YMMV on that.  Depends on the caliper casting and the wheel.  15" wheel has zero issues.  

The masters are all about the same - 76 Mav 6 cylinder is my favorite in iron, some folks use an aluminum Dodge MC with a 1" bore.  Ford uses the same bolt pattern from early 60s to the 2000s.  Some of the Dodge items use the same or very close.  MC issues revolve around bore size - they typically range from 7/8 to 1 1/8.  The smaller the bore, the higher the system line pressure but the more travel required.  1" usually leave you with a higher, harder pedal but move more volume to fill a 2 1/8" or so caliper piston.  Power also adds a twist - the power MCs are for use in front of a booster and use a different (deep) shaft pocket (manual shallow).  Also, the brake pedal is different between power and manual cars, with the manual having more leverage.    

I used the distribution/combination valve from the donor cars.  The small donors - Maverick, Comet, etc. are just about the same size and weight of a Mustang, Falcon or Fairlane (70 and back).  The rear brake cylinders have similar piston area, same type shoe, apply area, etc, etc.  

The front spindles fit because Ford used the same ball joint taper from about 66 up to 78 or so on the smaller cars.  The disk brake spindle from a 75 Comet bolts right up to the ball joints on a 67 Mustang or Falcon.   The joint seats like it should and the stud wedges into the spindle like you'd want.  Just about anything with a shock tower works - 72 up Mustang I don't think is a donor, similar the Torino/Fairlane line from 72 up uses a different front brake configuration (more like a "big" car).

Both race cars here use manual front disks robbed off some old mid 70s Ford and we've made thousands (really - combined, at least 6000) of passes and lots of regular street miles without issues.

I cross the 1/8 mile at 94 MPH, our shutdown area is about 1100 feet.  At 94 MPH, I can cover that distance in 8 seconds - I need brakes, don't like to use the sand trap.  

Thanks, that makes sense to me. Now let me throw you a curve. Is there any donor equipment for larger rear drum brakes, or just go with aftermarket kit. If you can use a donor vehicle for larger rear drums, do you have to use a different prop. valve.  

I never much worried about the back.  Both cars here have the usual V8 type 2" x 10" on the rear.  I think there was a 2 1/2 drum or 2 1/4 for small cars, but I'd have to dig in the books to see.  I don't know if you could find bigger for a small bearing rear, but the 57,58,59 small bearing 9" donor cars (sorry, don't have a list, T-Bird is in there though) might have a bigger drum.  If you have a large bearing rear, then anything off a Torino or even a pickup could be possibly be bolted on there.  For all that hassle, most people just switch to disks.  I'm not up on rear disk swaps, but they are all over the net.  Ultrastang has a good page on one.  If you want to drive the car hard, that's probably a better idea anyway.  

I had a choice, since I had the rear housings made to order - decided that it was good enough and had small ends put on the housings so the stock brakes just bolted right up.

If you increase the braking on one end or the other, you'd have to adjust the proportioning.  IIRC, the valve does not "split" the line pressure, it just delays full application of brake pressure to the back end to keep them from locking up before the fronts really get into the stopping work.  Increase the apply area with the same pressure and wheel cylinder area and you still get quicker application.  So I'd expect any modifications to require an adjustable prop valve.

Thought - go to Currie's web site and dig around, I think they sell upgraded drum components for Fords.  

Thanks Falcon. Master Power has a rear kit to convert to 11-inch ceramic brakes.  I plan using this car as a road trip/go out to eat and cruising car. I'll probably end up using stock brakes on rear and aftermarket power disc front setup. I think it will be the best answer for me, because I work in EMS and don't have much time to move around salvage yards, etc. Thanks for all your input.  

Sounds like a good plan - nothing wrong with that.  MP should be able to fix you up.  Easier than rooting around for parts, that's for sure.