Dual Radiator? Any Info? Running hot already

Well, my 63 falcon is running great, but with the summer approaching, it's starting to run a little hot (210*).  Today was only 80* and it got to 210* within 30 minutes of driving.  I have an alum. radiator (19 X26) which is a triple pass.  The water has to circlulate 3 times through the radiator before it goes to the block.  I'm running an electric water pump.  I have a 351W stroked to a 427 with an ATI procharger F1-R centrifical supercharger (85-93 Mustang).  I've just had to install an aeromotive fuel pump controller, as the fuel was being circulated too fast and the fuel was starting to boil, then vapor lock.  Just like the good ole 60's!  The engine is fuel injected and with a fuel cell, the gas would get hot from the fuel pump (running all out all the time). Then it would go to the engine compartment and get even hotter, then return to the fuel cell (only 10 gallon due to room), then vapor lock and wham dead on the road with the hood up.  Talk about swallowing your pride!  700HP usless.

Anyway, has anyone seen or heard of a dual radiator setup?  My current radiator is as big as I can get without major modifications to the radiator support area.  Due to the supercharger belt, I have to run my electric fan as a pusher style (bumper side).  It is a 3200CFM fan.  I'm not running an intercooler as of yet, due to where to mount.  The front bumper restricts airflow to the lower 1/4 of the radiator.  Unlike my mustang, which uses a smaller thinner bumper, this one is about 12 inches wide and restricts the lower part of the radiator.

I'm looking to get the heat out of the engine compartment.  Does header wrap work?  My experience has been that little adjustments do little to solve the problem.  Usually big adjustments (new radiator ect) usually solve the problem.  Soo... I thinking of another external radiator somwhere, inside the wheel weel??  Any ideas?

John  

buy a non contact temp gun....

it must have a upper temp over 300F... not all of them have it... many only go to 230F...  it is a lot easier to tell what the cooling system is doing with that...

sounds like the tubes are starting to get clogged up....    you might want to take it out and to a radiator shop and have it pressure flushed...  

not like you think.....     with a high pressure wand...  

most of the better old style shops have a  4 foot piece of pipe with a hose adaptor on top of a valve and a tee close to the valve.. with a air valve hooked to your regulated (40PSI) air hose... the end of the pile has a 45 ell, a nipple.. and a tapered rubber cone to place against the lower opening.. filling the radiator till water flows out of the top fitting. give it a blast of air..  this puts a  real rush on the passages..  cleans them out in most cases...   this is not something you want to do to a plastic tank radiator...  and you really really don't want to do it with the cone tight in the bottom fitting..


in fact...  now that i think about it...  they did the flow from the top to the bottom... with a foot over  the lower opening to prevent/divert the spray...  

thanks, but it is a new radiator.   I beleive part of the problem is the blower blow off valve (pressure relief valve) when under normal cruzing conditions, the hot compressed air is released through this valve.  Since the throttle body is taking in all it can handle, the excess air is released through this valve, which is controlled by vacuum.  When I stab the throttle, the valve closes and the engine uses all the air the blower is producing.  I probably need to figure out an intercooler setup and put this valve after the intercoolers, so at least the air not being used has been cooled.  

You'll probably have to de-rate than fan about 40% for being a pusher.  And to be effective with that equipment, a "3200 CFM" fan would need to be on the back side with a full shroud.  Most are rated as pullers in free air - flip them around and they begin to "suck" pretty bad.  I do not believe in header wrap - you should have them HPC or Jet Hot coated to help reduce underhood temps.  Also, you didn't say what t-stat you are using, I would recommend nothing under 195F.  You want that water hot to help the heat exchanger work.  I think your problem is going to "boil down" (sorry LOL) to not enough air flow.  you're not making 700HP just putting around, so you don't have that many BTUs to move off - more like a combination of stuff in the way and not enough air moving across the radiator tubes.  You have a real packaging problem with a 63 - kudos for squeezing that much stuff in there in the first place.  You may need to consider a major redo  of the front end config - rad support, etc.  

I use this 31 x 19 setup and it would probably work for you - if you had a place to put it.  
 
1967 Falcon 4 door 351C-4V
1970 Mustang 351C-2V
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Owner built, owner abused.

Yes, the headers were jethot coated.  I'll check on the thermostat.  I believe it is a 160*.  I didn't realize the fan would loose CFM being a pusher.  I know what I have to do (reconfig front end), but I was hoping for an easier solution.  I'll change the thermostat.  I'll then see if I can squeeze a 31" radiator in.  I might pull the front bumper off and drive around and see what kind of temps I get then.  With the front bumper off, the lower half of the radiator will then get some fresh air.

thanks, john  

Try the hotter t-stat and see.  A spoiler/air dam on the nose to direct air up behind the bumper and to create a low pressure area under the radiator might help on the street some.  
1967 Falcon 4 door 351C-4V
1970 Mustang 351C-2V
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Owner built, owner abused.

What about a remote oil cooler?  

I've talked to a couple racen buddies and they suggested the oil cooler and remote (dual) oil filter setup.  I never thought about cooling the oil.  I'm going to try them both and see.

Thanks!