I own a '66 mustang hardtop, 289 V8, automatic, and have 15x7 Mag Wheels.  I want to install front disc brakes as my drums are worn out.  I have been researching and have narrowed it down between two companies either Master Power or SSBC.  Which of the two is better?  I know Master Power is a bit less expensive but are they good quality brakes?  Do they require alignment?  I know SSBC brakes are great quality, but they are about $200 to $300 more, and being a college student, I need all the money I can save.  However I do not want to pay for something that ain't worth it.  My question again is are Master Power brakes good quality?  Are they reliable or should I go with SSBC, since they are Bolt in and ready to go with great quality?
Thanks  

be aware... there have been lots of problems with granada spindles on early fords..

read up as much as you can on the subject... before doing anything...

if you do your drum brakes properly... new cylinders,,, new spring kit... new self ajuster kits on both sides...   silicone sealer on the ends of the various springs  to stop them from jumping off...

having the drums machined smooth...     not like a 78 rpm record.. new hoses...

this will give you really great brakes for a few years...  not enough to road race with... but you are not road racing.. ordnary driving...    

the only thing i would think is a must is to split the system.. and put on a dual master..      

if your car has as many miles as my ford has.. the bottom of the backing plates may be worn through from the edge of the shoe rubbing..  that got fixed with a welder and a grinder...  

MSTG, We've used both companies numerous times in projects throughout the years. I have SSBC brakes on my '90 and on our Factory Five Cobra replica. I also have Master Power on my '66 Mustang.

Both companies have a good product that bolts right on. If I had to make any comparison at all, it is SSBC has more performance oriented options (slotted discs, larger discs, powder coating and multiple piston calipers) where as MP is more a stock looking brake setup. Both stop well, and you can easily get service parts locally (pads, etc.)...

A nice basic setup for you would be the front disc conversion with a dual reservoir master and if you want, upgrade to power with a vacuum booster...

HTH...
Mark  

Both companies sell good parts.  ANYTIME you rework parts of the front end, you will need an alignment.  You'll be changing tie rod ends, so yes - you'll have to do a toe in adjustment after installing the parts and then take it to an alignment shop.

>be aware... there have been lots of problems with >granada spindles on early fords..

You want to elaborate on that?  Anything in particular?  I've done several and talk to lots of people that have done the conversion and have no knowledge of any special problems.  

Thanks for the replies!  I'm not a hard driver, and I don't want my car looking too "new".  I think I am going to go with Master Power, I looked online and did not find any complaints and their parts are easily replaceable at any auto store.  
One last question, is it better to go with the single piston, or 4 pistons?  I've heard that single pistons are better?
thanks  

I am in the last 15% of finishing restoration on a 65 fastback Mustang and I went with Master Power. I am not quite done, so, I can't give any operational info. I will say I like the fit and appearance of the fit.  

Single piston is sufficient for most cars.  The floating caliper used on all the mid 70's Fords are single piston.  

I am going to go with manual dual bowl master cylinder brakes with 4 pistons from Master Power.  I'm not a harder driver, and I like how it feels to push my drum brake pedal.  Thanks for all the Help!  

I have finally finished the install on my mustang.  I got the MP Brakes kit, Power 4 piston brakes.  Unfortunately the only way I could make the power booster and dual reservoir master cylinder fit was to remove the brace on the drivers' side.  I notice that when i push the gas from an idle state while driving that the engine kind of "shakes".  I am unsure if this is because of the vacuum or if it is because of the missing export brace on the drivers' side.  Any suggestions about replacing the export brace and what that shaking might be?  Also part of the export brace is welded to the shock tower.