Hey all,

I finally got my car all back together and fired off today. I was very happy that it started after the new carb got gas and seemed to idle well....then the problems.....

http://forums.mustangandfords.com/70/6603137/mustang-fords-drivetrains/1970-351-c-intake-carburetor-choices-opinions/index.html

That link will take you to my other post: 1970 351-C Intake / Carburetor Choices / Opinions

Basically I installed: Edelbrock intake, Holley 4 barrel, Procomp "ready to run" distributor, Mallory coil and other, less important odds and ends like items to hook the carb up to existing linkages, kick downs, etc.

So, I ran the car and it got real hot (I was still "burping" air out of the cooling system), took it for a drive around the block and it exhibited a real lack of power. I got it home and tried to turn the car off, but it kept running on (dieseling?). Finally it stopped. I poured more coolant into it and started it back up adjusted the timing and slowed the idle speed down. That got rid of the dieseling effect.

It idles smooth now. I have not checked the timing with a light and I have not checked the vacuum with my gauge. I think I may be off a tooth for timing purposes, but the car fires right up and idles smooth.

The other issue I have is that the Procomp distributor has a little box sticking out of the side that limits movement for timing because it hits the intake manifold, also the clip that holds the cap hits the intake water hose. Ugh!

I am thinking of buying a Pertronix or other brand "ready to run" electronic distributor that does not have the box and that has the vacuum advance but that does NOT require some external box to run.

Any ideas about my problems or solutions?

Thanks,

Steve  

Man, I was swamped with responses! Thanks guys!!! Good to know someone cares.

I am real close to having it all set now. Just keep tweaking and playing around....it's drivable, no more dieseling, etc, etc. I think it may be too far advanced right now because I am getting some valve clatter, so I will have to back it down some.

Get my vacuum gauge and timing light and see what I have going on. I am ready to drive this sucker and see what she has!

Keep them responses coming.....

Steve  

Oh, calm down.  It was a long weekend - got to the track at 2 pm on Saturday, fixed the starter in the car and took pictures of folks in the winner's circle at 5:30am the next morning when we got done.  I'm too tired to care about much still and it's Wednesday already.

I wouldn't trust a ProComp distributor any farther than I could throw it.  MSD sells a ready-to-run unit - look at part #8350.  It ain't cheap.  If you want cheap, get a Duraspark dist. and use a GM HEI module with it.  Example Here

Put a timing light on it - until you have figures, you're just speculating.  the symptoms you described indicated very slow timing.  A tooth is maybe 22+ degrees, you may not be able to twist the dissy enough to compensate.  Double check the #1 TDC and rotor sync.  If you can limit full advance, an open chamber engine would like 12~16 initial and about 36~40 total, a closed chamber motor 10~14 initial, 34~36 total.  Depends on the fuel, temp, tune up, etc - each motor is different.

For "burping" the cooling system, you should drill one or two 1/8" holes in the outer area of the thermostat to allow air out of the system.  

Changed My Oil: Now My Car Won't Start: HELP!!

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Well, it did happen in that order, although I seriously doubt that the oil change was the culprit. Here is what i am talking about.

1970 351-C: Recently installed new carb and intake, coil (Mallory) and distributor (no points electronic). Got it tuned and drove it around for a while today and ran great. Shut it off and started it several times with no problems.

I made supper, then i went out and changed the oil and filter and cleaned out the trunk and things of that nature. Installed the drain plug and new filter, filled it with oil. Went to start the car and it would only crank, but not start. Checked the carb, and it was shooting gas. Changed the coil and the same thing happened....it cranked but did not fire. Changed the solenoid (test inconclusive as that solenoid was from a junk car).

All I can assume is that maybe I fried the power source to my coil from the ignition. I have not tested that as I ran out of daylight. Blown fuse? Blown fusible link? Do I need a power source to bypass the old line? Ballast resistor?

I wanted to also add, that after I had cranked it a bit, that the starter quit cranking. I changed the solenoid with a junk one off of the '68 that I am parting out. When I cranked THAT it was sparking hard from the side with the ground or negative cable. After that I changed back to the original solenoid and the engine cranked again......but did not start. Not sure if that makes any difference......

1.) When I first went out and cranked her up this morning, she fired right off and ran for about 15-20 seconds and then quit running. She wouldn't start again.

2.) Tests:

a.) Sparkplug wire to ground: No spark.

b.) Coil wire (that goes to center of distributor cap..."high tension") to ground: No spark.

c.) Power supply wire (brown/red) from harness to bat or "+" side of coil: 9VDC cranking and in acc.

d.) Battery voltage: 11.5 vdc.

e.) Good continuity everywhere.  

I'd bet your Chinese distributor is dead.  If the pickup in the dist. has failed, the car won't start.  

Left hand thread oil filters may also cause this problem but it's rare.  

Falcon67:
I'd bet your Chinese distributor is dead.  If the pickup in the dist. has failed, the car won't start.  

Left hand thread oil filters may also cause this problem but it's rare.

I have done everything but change cars and distributors. Can't do much about the car so I am changing the distributor as that has to be the only thing left.

Thank you for rubbing my face in the Chinese distributor with your comment. How pleasant. I am purchasing a Pertronix distributor with the Ignitor 2 system. Are there any flaws in that?

I wouldn't know much about left handed oil filters, only back handed compliments, those I enjoy.

Thanks for the help,

Steve  

I have done everything but change cars and distributors. Can't do much about the car so I am changing the distributor as that has to be the only thing left.

Thank you for rubbing my face in the Chinese distributor with your comment. How pleasant. I am purchasing a Pertronix distributor with the Ignitor 2 system. Are there any flaws in that?

I wouldn't know much about left handed oil filters, only back handed compliments, those I enjoy.

Thanks for the help,

Steve