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Posted: 04/14/08 10:36 AM
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Is there anything special I need to know about installing 4 speed clutch linkages in a auto car? I am helping a friend with the mechanical side of his restoration, and we are just about ready to install engine and trans. I know I will at least have to put a hole the firewall to fit the clutch rod boot and allow clearance for clutch rod. He is the body man, but I have to do the install. Any special considerations? How do can I be sure of exact hole placement? Thanks.
1967 Fairlane 289-4v auto...for now
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Posted: 04/16/08 12:39 PM
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I found out there should be a plug in the firewall/floor that was never punched out at the factory. It is in the correct place.
1967 Fairlane 289-4v auto...for now
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mccance
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 08/06
Posted: 07/05/08 08:20 PM
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it is pretty easy to switch from the auto to the 4 speed if you have all of the parts. Do you have a donor car? are you going to use the stock linkage or switch to a hydraulic linkage. The stock linkage bolts to the unibody on the frame rail and attaches to the engine on a pivot. the 5.0 blocks do not have the threaded hole for this pivot. So I hope you are using an early engine block, otherwise I believe you can drill and tap it. the hydraulic route works great but when I first switched over they sent me the wrong hydraulic throw out bearing and I spent a long time trying to figure out why it would not work. turns out I probably measured wrong. oh well. other than that it is a pretty easy swap. I left the engine in when I first switched over. and again when I changed to the hydraulic. later I swapped in a five speed and just had to trade the throw out bearing for the slave cylinder. one other thing. If you are using the stock linkage I would strongly recommend reinforcing the pivot arm. I bent mine when I installed a high performance clutch.
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Posted: 07/07/08 09:18 AM
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I am using stock linkage and the block is early and already has the pivot hole. The problem i ran into is this: if the little "knock-out" is in the correct place, it is not large enough for a stock boot. Also, I believe the master power booster bracket will have to "modified" slightly for clearance. I also was sent the incorrect equalizer bar, so I am waiting for the correct one now.
1967 Fairlane 289-4v auto...for now
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mccance
New User
| Posts: 10
| Joined: 08/06
Posted: 07/07/08 11:17 AM
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yeah when I did mine I used a die grinder to open up the hole a bit. but I was using a 67 donor car so things did not line up perfectly, so I will leave that question to someone who know first hand.
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