Nuetral safety switch wiring

My son and I are rebuilding a 68 Mustang Coupe. We purchased a rebuilt motor and transmission from a friend. When he pulled the motor from the car he cut most of the wires. There are 4 wires coming from the nuetral switch. Is there any way to id were they go??  

The wires are actually two pairs. One pair is for the neutral start and the second pair is for backup lights...

Red/blue stripe is the start circuit and black/red stripe is the backup light circuit...

HTH...
Mark  
Mark Houlahan
Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 347/AOD
1998 Escort 2.0L SOHC/F4E-111 Auto
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto

Also for reference - Mustang Wiring Diagrams  
1967 Falcon 4 door 351C-4V
1970 Mustang 351C-2V
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Owner built, owner abused.

thanks for your input, today I just went and bought a new switch. we installed it and it works in park but I am still having a problem getting the car to stay in park,it seems to just fall into reverse when ever it feels like it. What Next??  

It's most likely in the shifter itself. Take the chrome shifter cover off and move the shift lever around. I bet the shifter bushings are shot and the detent lock is slipping right past the detent...

HTH...
Mark  
Mark Houlahan
Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 347/AOD
1998 Escort 2.0L SOHC/F4E-111 Auto
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto

ok.... if it is falling out of park... there are several things to check...

with the car jacked up...  and the shift lever disconnected at the transmission...

see it if you can feel the detent roller properly riding on the quadrant inside the transmission...

i have had them get weak... slip to the side...  break... if you do not feel the shift lever on the side of the transmission go snap, snap  as you go through the gears... it is time to drop the pan... and examine the spring with the roller on  the end... that rides on the quadrant mounted to the inside of the shift shaft...

make sure the big nut on the shift shaft is tight...

another place to examine... is the relay crank below the steering column under the hood...  it takes the motion of the shifter from the column... and changes it's direction...      when the shaft bushings on that go bad... it gets sloppy...  

years ago... the one on my 70 ranchero went bad...    since only one is accessable... i bought 2 of the bushings at ford... i really don't know if they are still available...  with the one off the shaft that i could get off... i trimmed the second one so it would fit in between the parts and cut a single slice in it...  so i was able to put it over the shaft...  then snap it through the hole...  then i put the other bushing in...   this removed much of the play in the shift linkage...

there is also a detent plate in the column...  these also come loose... it has stepped notches in it... so you have to pull the shift lever toward the wheel before you can pull it out of park....      the screws come loose....   i have also found the tip of the shifter needs to be welded up and ground down to get rid of wear....

so there are a bunch of things to check....

i think that replacement shifter bowls may still be available...  if your shifter pin has worn it...    beware... some have undersized bores..    that is really not much of a problem.. if you have a lathe. or mill or a good machine shop nearby...

the fit has to be tight...  and on most... there is a lock bolt that can be removed when the column is in only one position...

please... please... block the wheels while playing with the shifter linkage...