C4 trans to 351w block

Greetings, i am building a 65 replica cobra kit car and will be bolting up C4 trans to a 351w small blk, info needed is type of bolt and washer and the torque spec on it, also the torque spec on the nut for the torque converter to the fly wheel and any specific washer or nut needed for that. And while i'm here the block plate any advice on that. This is all new to me so any tips or advice will be appreciated, thank you.  

The bellhousing bolts are 7/16-20 thread, about 2" long.  You can use a lock washer under the head.  There are some torque specs here: http://www.badazzponys.com/html/mustang_torque_specs.html  But I suggest you get a mid 70's service manual  (like a Motor manual) for most of that.  Don't have one here right now.  Bolt torque is also dependent on the thread lube and grade of fastener.  http://www.raskcycle.com/techtip/webdoc14.html

The flex plate bolt torque is really dependent on the fastener used - if you purchase ARP bolts, you would use their torque spec.  Stock bolts are in the 65-75 range.  Use the load spreader plate between the bolt heads and flexplate as in a stock application.  The converter fasteners run about 25 for 5/16" parts and 40~45 for 3/8" parts.  If there is clearance, a star washer can be used under the nut/bolt on the converter.  I also use blue Loctite on both the flexplate and converter fasteners.

You need a block plate, flex plate and torque converter that matches the bellhousing on the C4 you are using - either big bell (164 tooth flex) or small bell (157 tooth flex).  On a cobra, I'd assume the smaller bell would make for an easier install, but you'll likely have problems trying to use a stock starter on a 351W.  If it's a small bell trans, plan on running a small PMGR starter.  
1967 Falcon 4 door 351C-4V
1970 Mustang 351C-2V
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Owner built, owner abused.

Performance Automatic just came out with a nice steel block plate that accomodates small and big bells, 157/164 flywheels, and auto/stick configurations. It's all laser cut, you simply snap off the inspection plate if using an auto, etc.

Very nice part. Saw it at the NMRA race a few weekends ago...

Chris is correct on the PMGR starter, and I prefer to use them in all of our projects and have one on our FFR as well.

Good post Chris!

Mark  
Mark Houlahan
Editor
Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S auto
1990 Mustang 347/AOD
1998 Escort 2.0L SOHC/F4E-111 Auto
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto

Ah - saw that PA plate in the Summit catalog awhile back and had forgotten about it.  Good call on that one Mark.  
1967 Falcon 4 door 351C-4V
1970 Mustang 351C-2V
http://raceabilene.com/kelly/hotrod
Owner built, owner abused.