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351 Cleveland Timing?

 
Ck250
New User
Posts: 2
Joined: 12/08
Posted: 12/31/08 09:03 PM

I have a 351 Cleveland And I changed the distributor O-ring and I throw my timing off so I took it out and tried a different setting and well that did not work so I changed it a again and it wont go down so I tried turning the motor with a breaker bar and it only turns half way and gets stuck so I think the cam is at its high point so I turn it the other way gets stuck again and got stuck half way around so I look down in the distributor hole and I see that the oil pump driveshaft that goes on the distributor at the bottom of the motor is side ways so I put a screwdriver in the hole to see if its lose witch it is and I'm trying to get it to go straight but keeps fulling over to the side so I think it came out of place but I never done timing in a car before and what I want to know is from you guy if you can help me what did I do did I brake it or did it come out of place.
Thanks sorry if this message is to long but trying to give as much information that I can Thanks again.  
1988 Mustang 351 Cleveland 4v

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mechanicalguy48
User
Posts: 53
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 01/01/09 12:17 AM

The shaft is a hex shaft that drops into the hex on the oil pump. When you pulled the distributor the shaft came up with it and came out of the pump drive then fell back down. There is a washer on the shaft that hits the block boss and is supposed to keep it from coming up but the washer slips down the shaft. Your job is to get the shaft up and into the drive in the oil pump, not easy. Sometimes of you have a long skinny set of pliers(or good magnet) you can grap the shaft and get it to drop back in. If you pull it out entirely the washer will fall down in your oil pan,,,no big deal its not likely to hurt anything. If you get it out you can put it in the end of the distributor and hope it stays while you insert them both down in. Or you can try to get the shaft in by itself, neither way is easy. I have never done this on a Cleveland so I dont know how much clearance you have. The windsor small block is not too bad, you can get it in. When you look down there you are seeing the boss on the block and the pump is well below that, get a light to see it. I once put some paper in the distributor end of the shaft so that the clearance was tight and the shaft wouldnt come out, then re inserted them both. Make sure the paper is only enough to tighten the clearance(trim it) if you do it.
Probably some other stories here on how to do it also, anyone who has worked on Fords has done it at one time.  

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Ck250
New User
Posts: 2
Joined: 12/08
Posted: 01/01/09 02:33 PM

Thanks a lot I'll try that now if I get it out though is there any way to keep it from doing that again?  
1988 Mustang 351 Cleveland 4v

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mechanicalguy48
User
Posts: 53
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 01/01/09 05:36 PM

Not unless you take off the oil pan and oil pump and put a new shaft up there from the pump side. The shaft has a washer that fits tightly to the shaft and the washer sits tightly below the engine boss when the shaft is put into place from that end(ITS ONLY THAT SLIDING WASHER THAT KEEPS IT IN PLACE). Once you pull the shaft up ,,,and the washer(has prongs on it to hold to the shaft) slides down there is nothing to keep the shaft from moving again except gravity. I guess on the good side, your not the first guy to do that, and lots of guys have lost the shaft down in the pan,,,which requires that you should take off the pan and retrieve the shaft because who knows where it could go. Those stock shafts are prone to break in a modified engine so always use a chrome moly shaft from the aftermarket when you build an engine, cheap insurance.  

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fair67driver
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Posts: 161
Joined: 03/08
Posted: 01/05/09 08:15 AM

I clean the distributor and the rod, then I use a little permatex to hold the shaft in the dist. Let the dist./shaft assembly set long enough for the permatex to set up. It doesn't take much permatex. I have doneit on several different makes and models of engines.  
1967 Fairlane 289-4v auto...for now
1967 Galaxie 500 302-soon to be 534
2007 Mustang
1979 F-250 EXT CAB
4X4
2006 Taurus

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Falcon67
Enthusiast
Posts: 543
Joined: 12/06
Posted: 01/05/09 02:43 PM

>which requires that you should take off the pan and >retrieve the shaft because who knows where it could go.
Leave it - it won't do anything down there.  

Sounds like the real problem is that you are off some teeth.  You have to put #1 on the compression stroke, set the balancer to zero and then install the distributor so that the rotor points to #1 plug wire.  If the dist doesn't set down in the motor, DO NOT turn the engine - use an old dist. base or a 1/4 (might be 3/16 on a C) 12 point 1/4 drive socket on a long extension to turn the oil pump shaft slightly and try again.  Secure the socket to the extension so you don't get it stuck in the hole.  Several tweaks may be necessary - this is normal and never mentioned in any mag article (hint).  
1967 Falcon 4 door - 351C
1970 Mustang coupe - 351C
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Owner built, owner abused.

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MadPainter
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 01/09
Posted: 01/21/09 07:28 PM

and have you pulled the oil pump rod clear out yet?
If not just be carful it should be ok.

Timing instructions should be in a chiltens or other overhaul manual.
READ AND UNDER STAND BE FOR YOU TAKE THIS PROJECT ON.


It is a little tricky but if you read and understand
the book you should get it.  

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