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Ignition problem

 
Drumr90
New User
Posts: 13
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/27/12 08:17 PM

Well the history i know of is it sat from about 1984 maybe to 94 when my uncle bought it got it runnin and drove it for a mounth till gas tank rotted out and parked it. My family forgot we had it till i started cleaning what i though was trash till i found a tire and fender. That was in 2005. Then my uncle was gunna sell it to a guy for parts car till i said ill take it. Started workin on it in 2007 and have been since.  

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HG68390
New User
Posts: 19
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/28/12 04:25 AM

Barn finds are awsome. If the car is a 67 and up get a marti report. It will tell you what all came with the car and other interesting details about it. have you checked all your connections to the battary and starter and made sure you have a good engine ground. The engine ground should be o the passenger side firewall running to the passenger side cylinder head. They are items that will cause high resistance if the car has been sitting for awhile. clean the contacts of each and make sure all are tight. also make sure your battary is in good shape, and its fully charged.  

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Drumr90
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Posts: 13
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/28/12 07:38 AM

Ill look ino all of that stuff. Pics be comein soon.  

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Drumr90
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Posts: 13
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 02/29/12 06:05 PM

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L 231F23fd14eb1f37d4ccd7cc86a91144
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paint job done by my grandfather and me first car we ever painted lol. its original color for the car.  

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waynep7122
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Posts: 146
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 03/01/12 08:25 AM

a few things that mustang man mentioned... let me expand on them..

i am going to mention a bunch of different things...  and you have to understand.. i have been a professional auto mechanic for over 30 years.. and in those 30 years.. i have only been defeated by ONE car..  and that car still bugs me..  i think i might know what it is now.. but that car has long been crushed..


lets go through your tools...
do you have a dwell meter???   point type cars really need to have one..  hf has them if you don't have one..  adjusting the dwell with a feeler gauge is really not the way to make the car run properly..
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do you have a DIGITAL volt meter???  

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do you have a circuit tester..

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~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


lets test the ignition power circuit...

loop a piece of wire around the coil positive terminal.. then push the connector back down..  clip the volt meter or test light to that...     ground the other lead or probe...

turn the key to the RUN position..    you should have around 9.6 volts on the coil positive.. test light medium bright.


turn the key to the cranking position.. you should have close to 12 volts  test light at full  brightness.

this proves the coil positive is getting the proper voltage...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

pull the cap...   with the key OFF.. turn the motor till the points are OPEN...

pull the coil wire from the cap...  position the end about 1/2 inch from an engine ground...   don't hold onto it...

turn the key on..

with a screw driver...  touch the open side of the points to the fixed contact side..   wiggle the screw driver..  does the coil wire spark????

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


if you have a dwell meter...    hook up the GREEN lead (usually)  to the negative side of the coil...   the other lead on digital dwell meters is usually hooked to ground..    set it to 8 cylinder scale..   disconnect the vacuum hose to the vacuum advance..

crank the engine...  or start the engine .. various fords have  been 24 degrees.. i usually set them to 26 degrees .. it varies upon the actual distributer..

after i set the dwell.. then i check the timing..   dwell effects timing..  so dwell first.. then timing check..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

you can deadstick time the engine with points..   bring the timing degree mark to the pointer.. so its where you want the timing at..   you can now.. with the cap off.. grab the rotor.. and see if when you turn the rotor against the advance springs get the points to open just as you start to turn the rotor..    points closed.. coil charges.. points open.. coil discharges making the spark..   by turning the distributer housing to allow the slight rotation of the mechanical advance to open the points.. lets you preset the engine to allow it to start and run without needing to mess around turning the housing..

if you turn the key on.. turning the rotor while the engine is set. this will make the coil discharge as you start the turn of the rotor.. let it go.. nothing should happen..


please ... print the text i posted...

follow the different sections...  post results...  

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Drumr90
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Posts: 13
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 03/01/12 01:16 PM

I will post results when i can get time to work on car.  

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HG68390
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Posts: 19
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 03/03/12 05:39 PM

Your car looks very good. I have always liked the 67-68 body style. Looks like you may have a well optioned car a/c and a bench seat are kinda rare. You may want to look into that marti report I was talking about. waynep7122's post is very well put together but I want to back up a step and see if you have checked to see if the distibuter is in correctly. when you installed it did you line up the mark on the balancer with the timing pointer that is on the front cover? the number one piston has to be all the way up with both valves closed (Compression stroke) and make sure the rotor tip inside the distubter cap is aligned with the 1 mark on the cap. The base of the distibuter will move from left to right. a rule of thumb is to keep the vaccum advance facing you to allow you room to advance or retard your timing correctly. Hope some of this helps keep us updated.  

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Drumr90
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Posts: 13
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 03/03/12 06:35 PM

Yes i had  everything lined up with number one before instal and after instal.

The 67 68 yr mustangs are my fave. Yes very well optioned just no fm radio just am lol But thats ok i never listen to radion old motors sound to cool to ignor.

Now when i look up marti report do i use 289 motor or 302. Reason im askin is cause my car has a 302 block with 289 heads. All badgeing Plus what i already know of car is saying 289 but block is stamped 302.  

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HG68390
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Posts: 19
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 03/06/12 05:56 PM

all they need is the vin and they will tell you how the car was built. so when inputing information on the site do so as the car came from the factory. for the 68 model year it could have come with a 302 or a 289. there should be 3 places on your car for the vin 1. on a tag on the dash on the passenger side you can see it through the windshield 2. on the drivers fender apron there will be a notch in the fender where the stamp should be somtimes you have to pull the fender back a little to see it 3. the door data plate on the drivers door edge. if the door does not match the other two then use the one on the fender apron or dash as the door could have been changed over the years. and you can call them directly and they can help you even futher but get this report it is well worth the money.  

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Drumr90
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Posts: 13
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 03/07/12 07:41 AM

Ok i got ya.  

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HG68390
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Posts: 19
Joined: 02/12
Posted: 03/14/12 01:52 PM

any updates???  

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pepsi1
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Posts: 36
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 03/17/12 09:21 PM

If you have coverted to any electronic ignition DON'T use a resistor.

Resistors were for point type distributors. It converted the battery voltage of 14.4 volts to approx. 10.0 volts it was done this way so we weren't replacing points every 500 miles....... Grin  Cool

Bob  

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