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Would Like A Theory........

 
slud
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Posts: 86
Joined: 02/09
Posted: 03/23/12 02:17 PM

I have a 89 Mustang, 2.3 standard, no air, that I am trying to get 30 mpg's out of. The old motor did that. I used a MSD 6 with coil, and ACCEL wires. Re-added those parts to new motor. 25 mpg. Added a K&N air filter...25. Had a set of used 4.6 injectors, with the 4 hole spray....driving with foot pressure, it runs down the road 10 mph faster, it climbs hills now in od that I had to downshift on, but still...25 mpg.Theories??? Thoughts?? I still want 30 mpg!!! I would really like some ideas on this.  

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waynep7122
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Posts: 146
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 03/23/12 03:33 PM

wow..   is the MSD distributer compatible with the EEC4 timing control.??? must be.. or the mileage would have dropped..

is you engine still equipped with a NON roller follower cam?????   that is one thing that ford did to increase MPG on the motors..   i seem to recall that a factory 91 ranger 2.3 roller follower cam was about the best for performance..  but i am probably wrong..   its not that hard to swap cams in these.. there is a thrust plate at the back of the last cam stand to remove and jack the front of the motor up slightly to clear the radiator support..

you might want to pick up some kind of slightly advanced automotive digital multimeter.. i have the blue innova.. and it shuts off after 3 minutes of not changing a range.. so its fairly annoying..    my thought is perhaps the HF automotive version.. i have not tried it yet.. i seem to recall it will display duty cycle and millisecond...  with some creative junk yarding..  

creative as in .. Volvos in the 70 through the 90s. came with the same shape as the fuel injector connector on the primary connection to the distributer.   saabs as i recall in the 90s use the same connector on their either oxygen sensor or ABS sensors..  you could create some break out connectors to easily tap into the injector circuit to monitor the millisecond pulse width right from the drivers seat while you drive..   when i talk about this.. i am talking the injector side of the connection..

i am also taking that you have changed the air charge temp sensor and the coolant temp sensor for brand new versions..  so there is no drift in voltage response..

do you have an air fuel ratio display in the car??? so you can monitor the exhaust...

if so   you might have the ability if you can find a proper pair of connectors.. and they should be available to make a short extension harness for the coolant temp sensor..  so you could add a trimming resistor to the circuit to change the air fuel ratio ever so slightly..   its a reach.. but monitoring the oxygen sensor to make sure you are not driving it too lean..

there are people who have run flex hones and lots of solvent down the lower intake manifold to smooth the passages...  this is done in a solvent cleaning tank.. that might be hard to find now a days.. with the water based solvents in use now..  and an air drill not an electric drill..  since the manifold is dry.. it might help..  

have you verified the proper operation of the diverter valves in the air injection system??  and the check valves..   if the diverter valves leak uncommanded air into the upstream air (up stream of the oxygen sensor) it will screw up your fuel economy..

the diverter valve is operated by the TAB and TAD solenoids..  you will want to make sure that they are both getting a good supply of vacuum and that they work..  the ECM commands the TAD solenoid on during open loop to help burn off extra hydrocarbons in the exhaust.. but it can only do this when the system is in open loop.. it does do a test once every key on cycle to prove the thermactor system is working as it looks at the change in the oxygen sensor voltage.. or it will lock the system into open loop default..

leaking EGR valves can also reduce your fuel economy..  but again they have to work perfectly.. for the SYSTEM to pass its self test and run in closed loop..

these are just ideas...   i tried to keep them separated..  it takes a LOT of knowledge to get more mpg out of a stock system.

i am taking that you have some kind of scan tool to work with the EEC4 system.. that can run your KOEO and KOER tests..  and have gone through each of the devices with the manual to test each one for proper signal voltage.  

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slud
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Posts: 86
Joined: 02/09
Posted: 03/24/12 10:17 AM

Thanks a lot Wayne...I have a roller cam to be installed... was going to mill extra head and do some porting before installing...new coolant sensor, cleaned air charge, new ox sensor, tried a factory header from a Ranger... had EGR blocked off, no difference when fixed up with good EGR and sensor.....Don't know where to find information on the duty cycle..what is good or bad...I did restrict the flow of water to water pump to get more heat [it was cold this winter] that seemed to run heat up quite a bit..I got a seperate fan switch so I could set temp up higher [about 200 ]...Somewhere along the line I'll break out the old scan tool and try to get some hard info...Thanks agin for help..one of these days I STILL have to start on wiring on old 61....  

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waynep7122
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Posts: 146
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 03/24/12 02:18 PM

you need a really good book on EEC4 theory... there is a LOT to know... and i am really rusty on eec4 systems..  but they work very similar to the GM  fuel injection systems..

the big question.. do you have to smog your car????

you seem to have a handle on some of it...

my thought about the digital volt meter is to monitor the millisecond pulse width of the fuel injectors.. 1.3 to 1.4MS is expected..  at idle..  since you have already installed larger injectors.. the ECM might be backing them off already once you have reached operating temp and closed loop..

the idea of fooling the computer by varying the feed back voltage from the coolant temp sensor is to fine tune the air fuel ratio.. as with increased heat.. less fuel is needed..   if you are running below a programmed temp thermostat.. the system will be rich trying to warm the motor..  wiping out your fuel economy..

why not start with some basic theory...

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?pageId=0900c152800694f6


car manufacturers spend hundreds of million dollars each year to try to increase MPG..


there is the ultimate option..   going back to an airflow controlled 87 turbo coupe set up..  

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waynep7122
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Posts: 146
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 03/24/12 02:24 PM

watching the air fuel ratio with a display off the oxygen sensor is the best thing.. so you don't melt things...

you might want to keep an eye out for a used break out box..   i have picked up several over the years for under 50 bucks at swap meets.  wish i still had all of them.. they tend to grow legs when other techs borrow them..


OH!!!!

after working on the EEC4 system...    you have to run the KOEO and KOER codes... to verify its working properly..    and you are aware.. that at the end of the KOER test.. it asks you to goose the throttle.. its going to check the Detonation sensor. so you really have to GOOSE it.. just a 1 second from idle to almost wot blast..  if you hear it ping.. thats a good thing as the ECM has advanced the timing and it wants to hear the pinging to verify the timing control..

if you get a pass 11.. then you are good to go..

or you can with the scan tool.. clear the codes..  

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slud
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Posts: 86
Joined: 02/09
Posted: 03/26/12 02:09 PM

Never have seen a breakout box for sale at National Trails swap meet. Have to keep eye open for that. I know that running higher temps 200-206 like GM does is the best for emissions and mileage..Have a 195 stat, but would still not warm up 120 130 on cold mornings. Blocked radiator off, 130-160, still not enough heat to make heater core put out enough heat to keep my old butt warm.lol..restricted flow to bottm of water pump NOW I got heat!! Got to get a good gauge to see exactly what temp is. I have only done limited swapping of injectors..I put 3.4 chevy injectors in my escort [refer back to your limited resister post] It ran good up to 70, then it really started to slobber...Is that what you are refering to..milliseconds and duty cyle? Read alittle about it, don't use the information daily, so easily forgotton...the plugs read just right..not rich,not lean..no lean surge....am wondering if compression ratio may be down a little... have you ever advanced or retarded the cam by a tooth? I haven't tried this yet the car IS my daily driver, and I live 20 miles from work...I'm alittle too old to "hoof it" very far.. Thanks for the ideas, I REALLY appreciate all the help!!  

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waynep7122
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Posts: 146
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 03/26/12 02:54 PM

one whole tooth is probably TOO MUCH to even play with.

there are adjustable cam sprockets..  with bolts to loosen to slightly shift where the cam timing..

did you see this...

http://www.needhp.com/ford23ultralightauxiliarygear.aspx

it's a 2300 cam gear with multiple keyways MILLED into the back side.. so it is hidden..

there are a few articles on the 2300 over in circle track as they use them for mini stock racing..  

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waynep7122
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Posts: 146
Joined: 10/09
Posted: 03/26/12 03:01 PM

there are other versions around..   that are probably less... money...

you might want to check EBay..  

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