MENU Subscribe to a Magazine
  • Sign in
  • Join

Subscribe to Print or Digital! Save up to 83%

Magazine Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
Magazine Mustang Monthly
Magazine 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
Magazine Modified Mustangs & Fords
  • Print Subscriptions
  • Digital Subscriptions
  • Gift Subscriptions
  • Subscriber Services
  • Back Issues
  • Personalized Cover
  • Subscribe to a Magazine
Item Posts    Sort Order

PAW's 427ci 351W stroker

 
soutex
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 09/12
Posted: 09/04/12 10:05 AM

I bought my 68 Mustang with a 351W that had been stroked to 427.  Mustangs and Ford did a nice write up on it 10 years ago:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/engine/35939_paw_427ci_351w_stroker_kit/#ixzz216dwiEri

My cam has a .513/.529 lift and roller lifters/rockers. What I don't know is where this engine red lines. No info came with the car and PAW has not built Ford blocks for a long while now.

Any good guesses?  I am thinking 6000 rpm but with those long rods I am really in the dark. A mechanic I know thinks that 5500 rpm is limit.  

Post Reply
pepsi1
New User
Posts: 36
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 09/08/12 12:50 PM

Icon Quotesoutex:
I bought my 68 Mustang with a 351W that had been stroked to 427.  Mustangs and Ford did a nice write up on it 10 years ago:

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarticles/engine/35939_paw_427ci_351w_stroker_kit/#ixzz216dwiEri

My cam has a .513/.529 lift and roller lifters/rockers. What I don't know is where this engine red lines. No info came with the car and PAW has not built Ford blocks for a long while now.

Any good guesses?  I am thinking 6000 rpm but with those long rods I am really in the dark. A mechanic I know thinks that 5500 rpm is limit.


You happen to hit this nail on the head...I'll explain, my son's friend was looking to put a roller cam, and update to a roller cam in his early 351w. But still have the car driveable on the street. It's not a real wild cam. This is the Comp Cam that we used. I don't know if PAW used this cam, but those specs are too close to be a coincidence...LOL...Confused

It's not a killer cam, but more of a driveable, more tame cam for the street, it pulls hard... I hope this helps you out. Grin  Cool  

COMP CAM EXTREME ENERGY P/N 35-425-8
The Grind Number is XR282RF-HR
It is not intended for EFI.
You can use that grind P/N any get Spec. Card.

If this PAW's version so beit. I'm sure being around the automotive world for along time. PAW I'm sure does not grind their own cams...LOL...

Specs.
.513/.529 Lift
.230/.236 Duration
110 Lobe Seperation
106* intake Centerline
RPM Range is 2,000 to 6000RPM it will rev higher, just make sure the other components of the valve train are up to par. Blush

If used in an automatic trans.
Use a 2500 stall convertor
Headers with a 15/8" outlet is fine for a street daily/driver. Use dual exhaust (real dual exhaust) with a 2 1/4" to 2 1/5" Pipe nothing bigger, using a bigger exhaust pipe will not only lose bottom end torque, but will be loud. If you can go back in the day Ford used a cross-over or H-pipe...about 12" after the header flanges. (This also helps low end torque). Cool  You will lose bottom end torque, and torque is important to get your car moving...
Good Breathing Intake manifold
Rear Gears of 3:73:1
Rough Idle

PS...Don't be suprised when you get the specs, and it shows American Motors also. Just go through the maze, and it will be there... Grin  CoolHope this helps you out.. Tongue

Bob  

Post Reply
pepsi1
New User
Posts: 36
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 09/08/12 01:59 PM

Soutex:

If you are talking about a longer then stock connecting rod, there is NO advantage to it. Unless it's used in a stroker engine.

A longer then stock connecting rod has no gain for a street engine. We have seen NO GAINS on our Dyno Testing. Highly modified engines at 8,000RPM plus will you see any gain. For example=(F1 engine spinning at 14,000RPM and up) it will help. Their stroke is sooo short they need to spin the engine that high. Remember they are not push rod engines.

A longer then stock connecting rod parks the piston at TDC and BDC longer (or dwell time)

The longer then stock connecting rod also creates problems with weird  rod angles. This also causes rapid wear of the cylinder bores,pistons,and piston rings, not to mention the friction and drag internally on engine parts.

If you are running an automatic or manual trans it really doesn't matter. Heres are a few suggestions, and your mechanic can make these changes for you I'm sure.

Using headers if you are,leans an engine out. Its because it is really a free flowing pipe when you look at it. Compaired to an exhaust system on a new car. with Cats, resonators big mufflers etc.

You didn't mention what size carb your using, so I'm going to guess a 700CFM Holley with vacuum secondaries.

Just some other suggestions.
1.180* thermostat
2.If an automatic. Use a seperate transmission cooler. Don't hook it into the engines radiator.
3.Go(2) steps colder in spark plugs atleast in the summer months
Check your spark plugs for color. Make a couple of hard runs back to back. (By that I mean take it through the gears or an automatic shift it at it's max RPM) 4.Shut the engine off and read the color of your spark plugs.If they do not color with spark plugs 2 steps colder. Then your mechaic may want to upjet your carb. using .002 at a time.
5.Try different shift points or (RPM)
6. Set your base timing at 12*,and run a max or 32* all in at 2500 RPM. If your engine pings, then adjust the timimg accordingly.

Bob  

Post Reply