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1968 F100 Ranger...5.0 5 speed info wanted

 
ranger6t8
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 06/16/13 01:16 PM

I'm a newbe, found the site doing a search for ford truck forums and thought i'd give it a shot.  I have a 1968 Ford F100 Ranger, bought it as a project a couple years ago, had the 390/3 speed in it, drove it around for a while then decided I wanted to do some changing.  Upgraded to front disc brakes then decided I wanted to go to a 302/5 speed, sold the 390/3speed, found a deal in a 1991 5.0 with GT 40 heads, E303 cam, Edlebrock troker II intake, Holley 650, Mallory unilite distributor, shorty headers, 1.6 roller rockers and pulleys.  After a lot of research I found that the 5 speed tranny/bellhousing from a 1998 3.8 Mustang was a direct bolt on for the 5.0, had to mismatch some compnents such as the flywheel to have the correct imabalnce, the 3.8 pilot bearing and clutch was good to go.

Long story short, I finally have everything in the truck, had the exhaust reattached and so on.  Couple of things i'm puzzled about and was hoping for input...

1.  Does the waterpump need to turn clockwise or counter clockwise?  I did keep the serpentine belt set up, had a plate made to intall an idler pulley in place of the power steering pump.

2.  I had to remove the baffles from inside the valve covers because the rockers was hitting them.  I bought a breather cap, popped a hole in top of it and added a grommet and a pcv valve that I have attached to the large port in the bottom of the carb.  Whats the best to have on the other valve cover, a breather or a solid oil fill cap?

3.  I have a long bed truck that originally had the 2 driveshafts. with the 5 speed being longer, is it better to shorten the front shaft or have the rear shaft extended?

4.  I hooked up 2 10 inch electric fans......shouldnt that be sufficient for cooling?

Any and all input appreciated  

Post Reply
waynep712222
New User
Posts: 33
Joined: 05/13
Posted: 06/17/13 02:31 AM

1.  Does the waterpump need to turn clockwise or counter clockwise?  I did keep the serpentine belt set up, had a plate made to intall an idler pulley in place of the power steering pump.

rotation should be counter clockwise... check the timing cover... you will see in the image below that on the passenger side of the engine.. only the reverse rotation water pump has a filled in area...

Fordtimingcoverchart

2.  I had to remove the baffles from inside the valve covers because the rockers was hitting them.  I bought a breather cap, popped a hole in top of it and added a grommet and a pcv valve that I have attached to the large port in the bottom of the carb.  Whats the best to have on the other valve cover, a breather or a solid oil fill cap?


you have to have a crankcase breather to work with the PCV... as the PCV cannot handle all the flow alone...  if you only have the PCV hooked up and not a breather filter in the other side or somewhere else .. you will build excessive vacuum in the crankcase under some conditions.. and excessive crankcase pressure under others..  after a LOT of research... i have found the unwritten spec..  of pinching off the PCV hose while the engine is at normal idle.. looking at a digital tachometer.. the engine should drop from 50 to 70 RPMs. if it drops more.. then you need to change to a smaller PCV calibration.. or you will use excessive amounts of oil during normal operation..  less than 50 rpm drop.. and you will have to have the throttle open too far and may hurt your fuel economy because the idle transfer slots may be exposed to much..


3.  I have a long bed truck that originally had the 2 driveshafts. with the 5 speed being longer, is it better to shorten the front shaft or have the rear shaft extended?

probably better to modify the forward drive shaft..  this reduces the need to move the drive shaft support bracket..




4.  I hooked up 2 10 inch electric fans......shouldnt that be sufficient for cooling?

thats hard to say.. there are serious CFM ratings on the fans...

also.. did you install the wiring so its powered off RELAYS... so the fans come on when needed just after the thermostat opens and cycles the hot coolant into the radiator.. then closes when the cooler coolant cycles into the engine... this reduces the load on the battery and charging system...

there are articles on using the 3G alternator that came with the 91 5.0...  as it puts out more current..   you will also want to increase or use the factory 5,0 alternator output to starter solenoid wiring.. with a new push in connector if you have disconnected it from the donor...

the earlier alternator is a lot more durable.. but the newer one puts out a LOT more amperage..

please... also install a proper  braided ground strap between the back of the cylinder heads and the firewall..

also .. verify that the negative battery cable that should have a mounting bracket part way down the cable is also properly connected..   guess what.. thats not a mounting tab on the ground cable.. that mounting tab is the negative battery to body connection...  and part of the engine to body connection..  without it.. you may not have enough current on the negative side to operate things like the defroster fan or headlights...

once you get it running.. you can run my voltage drop test to prove it works..

please.. also install a fuel injection fuel filter before the electric fuel pump.. as there is no provision for mechanical fuel pumps on the reverse rotation timing cover .. and no eccentric..

very creative people can also install an intank electric fuel pump..  by modifying the existing fuel sending unit.. or using a bulk head connector thru the top of the tank next to the sending unit..  so you can install the pump thru the opening.. several different ways to handle that.  and low pressure in tank electric pumps are available easily..  be sure to use the proper filter on the end or the pump will be ruined very quickly..   i also throw a magnet or two into the tank away from the sending unit to capture any sediment that gets into any fuel system..  

Post Reply
ranger6t8
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 06/17/13 11:58 AM

Great info....THANKS! Really helpful.   I do have the fans wired through a relay, bought a kit and so far so good.  The alternator I'd the one that was on my 390, took the grooved pulley off of the late model alternator and put it on.

One thing I forgot to ask earlier.... when I installed the intake when the engine was on the stand I noticed a threaded hole in the top of the block between the intake and where the bellhousing bolts up, I was thinking that was were a knock sensor may have been and put a brass, screw in plug.....will that cause any issue's?
Ford6t8?Pbauth=1 Ulebonvpfaldh1h3ymyz2yev6t8fjg6aru1ryuabcssl7p%2Fscajpvj5r02urf8xqesx0zrgwezts7ttikxtgm5z%2Bal3oqhr49nzsdk8iypv8awgd2hdoyjv%2FQZ%2B7yqiri%2Bgk36roxloqtmlbogjuip0sh0%2Faupecgxf5l0e%2F3yw%3D  

Post Reply
ranger6t8
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 06/17/13 11:58 AM

Great info....THANKS! Really helpful.   I do have the fans wired through a relay, bought a kit and so far so good.  The alternator I'd the one that was on my 390, took the grooved pulley off of the late model alternator and put it on.

One thing I forgot to ask earlier.... when I installed the intake when the engine was on the stand I noticed a threaded hole in the top of the block between the intake and where the bellhousing bolts up, I was thinking that was were a knock sensor may have been and put a brass, screw in plug.....will that cause any issue's?
Ford6t8?Pbauth=1 Ulebonvpfaldh1h3ymyz2yev6t8fjg6aru1ryuabcssl7p%2Fscajpvj5r02urf8xqesx0zrgwezts7ttikxtgm5z%2Bal3oqhr49nzsdk8iypv8awgd2hdoyjv%2FQZ%2B7yqiri%2Bgk36roxloqtmlbogjuip0sh0%2Faupecgxf5l0e%2F3yw%3D  

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