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Thinking about swapping out the efi 300-6 for a carbeurated 302.

 
TheGreatOne38
New User
Posts: 5
Joined: 05/12
Posted: 06/04/13 12:48 PM

My '96 F-150 has a efi 300 straight 6 4.9 litre. I'm wanting to put a carbed 302 from a junkyard in it, but i don't know if that would work with my gauges and whatnot. It should bolt right up to my E4OD transmission. I'm in high school so my resources are limited, but i would like to do it if it's possible. The engine would be from an early-mid 80's f-150. I just want a rough idea if this is doable, ir if it's way too hard for me.  

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waynep712222
New User
Posts: 33
Joined: 05/13
Posted: 06/06/13 03:07 AM

your 96 300 6 has more horse power and torque than the stock 302...    i have a friend with a 96 E250.. he turned 400,000 miles... about 40,000 miles ago..  its only shy of displacement by 2 cubic inches.. thats about 2 ice cubes.

this is not going to be an easy swap if you want to keep the E4OD...

if you swapped a 302 with a C6 behind it.. it could be done..  a longer drive shaft would need to be made.. as the 302 is going to mount farther forward.. ..

will the gauges work.. yea. probably.. but the transmission won't shift..  its controlled by the computer..  and it needs all the info from the engine to calculate shift points...

a stand alone shift computer is available..  but its probably about 1800 bucks..

it did take a lot of work to keep the 300 running that far..

if it runs bad.. i should be able to advise you on how to fix it..

you will need at least an OBD2 scan tool...  the HF version # 98614 is 130 bucks and will do most of what is ever needed..

at about 330,000 miles.. the cam sprocket will probably fail...  they are a pain to change.. but with proper tools they can be done..

you will need exhaust manifolds before that...  thats the one thing the van needs again..  i am thinking about having some tube headers created... as i am tired of replacing the cracked exhaust manifolds.. cracked exhaust manifolds will really effect the running of the engine.. as will crazy stuff like the air injection system.. it has to work perfectly.. and correctly..  

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MustangMan
Moderator
Posts: 588
Joined: 07/06
Posted: 06/06/13 06:09 AM

Listen to Wayne on this. The 300 inline-six is a pretty good engine for the F-series and dropping in a carbed small-block is pretty much a step backwards and the only thing you'll have is bragging rights you have a V-8 truck. Otherwise you'll lose the fuel mileage, trans controls, EFI, etc.

If you want to keep your power steering, A/C, etc. you'll have to get all different brackets to mount them, etc.

Keep the 300, get some headers and exhaust for it, keep it in a good state of tune, and enjoy it.

HTH...
Mark  
Mark Houlahan
Brand Manager
Mustang Monthly Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600 5-speed
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4 Auto
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 306/AOD
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto
2005 F-150 4x2 4.2L V-6/4R70W Auto

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TheGreatOne38
New User
Posts: 5
Joined: 05/12
Posted: 06/06/13 11:17 AM

Thanks. I'll keep the 300. It's almost at 600,000kms and it always starts up first try. (I think it was rebuilt when the previous owner restored the truck). I'll probably just give it some venom injectors, a chip, and some minor stuff (maybe even a little NOS). As I mentioned before I'm in high school so I don't have the money to spend on a stand-alone shift computer (or any of the many other things i'd probably need), so it's good that you told me this before I got in over my head. Thank you both.  

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MotDranwod
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 06/14/13 05:32 PM

I have the F-100 with the 302 carbed, and the Duraspark II system. My ignition module is the Blue Grommet D8VE 12A199 A2D and I cannot find another ignition module anywhere. If anyone knows where to get one (please don't say everywhere cause I have emailed all over at the breaker yards and Ford products, NO JOY!)  

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waynep712222
New User
Posts: 33
Joined: 05/13
Posted: 06/14/13 08:43 PM

Icon QuoteMotDranwod:
I have the F-100 with the 302 carbed, and the Duraspark II system. My ignition module is the Blue Grommet D8VE 12A199 A2D and I cannot find another ignition module anywhere. If anyone knows where to get one (please don't say everywhere cause I have emailed all over at the breaker yards and Ford products, NO JOY!)

blue grommet ignition modules were probably the most popular and every parts store should have a version...

there are a few neat features  like when the white wire is powered up by the solenoid I terminal.. it retards the timing 10 degrees...

Motorcraft - Ignition Control Module around 100 bucks at some stores..
Motorcraft Part # : DY893   |  Line: MOT.   think oreilly's

BWD Select - Ignition Control Module
Part # : CBE7   |  Line: BWD

BWD - Ignition Control Module
Part # : CBE7P   |  Line: BWD


these were used from 75 thru 89 on tons of ford cars, trucks and vans...  77 thru 92 on jeeps of various models.

there are a few sites that actually have a way to remove the potted glue and circuit board.. drill and tap 2 screws... and use a 4 pin GM ignition module hidden inside... using the housing of the module as the all important heat sink..

and if you think why would anybody use a 4 pin gm module.. they are even more durable than the blue ford module..

jeep sites online have those instructions..


any duraspark module with a BLUE GROMMET will work...

do me a favor... unplug the pickup coil or just the module... figure out where the 4 wires go to...

set your digital volt meter to 2K ohms..  measure the resistance across the orange and purple wires into the pickup coil.. usually around 900 ohms... but somewhere between 500 and 1500 ohms is expected...

if you have the distributer out.. flip your meter setting over to 2 volts DC... spin the shaft.. you need to see over 1.0 volts AC  for the pickup coil to properly trigger the power transistor in the module.  this shows that the pickup coil is working with the proper resistance test... spinning the shaft and reluctor proves the reluctor is good and the air gap is correct..

if it passes the resistance test.. but not the AC voltage test... change the reluctor..  they do go bad..  sand blasting from rebuilders.. rust.. spray cleaners... all damages their ability to retain a small magnetic field..

also... please set your ohm meter to 200 ohm scale..  and measure the black wire to the engine block.. you should have almost 0 ohms of resistance..   this is actually one of the spark return paths to the module.. if the screw that holds down the strain relief in the distributor is loose or the wire  broken.. the modules will burn out very quickly..

the black wire from the distributer is also the ground connection for the module..  

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