Ad Radar
  • Subscribe to a Magazine
Item Posts    Sort Order

351 cleveland swap

New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 09/07
Posted: 09/08/07 09:35 AM

I have a 351 cleveland motor in storage, and I'm interested in putting it into a 88-92 mustang.  its a wide engine (wider then 5.0s and 351 windsors).   I was wondering if anyone knows how hard it is to fitt it in or other problems.   let me know,  

Post Reply
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 01/09
Posted: 01/03/09 01:55 PM

i also have a clev in storage i have a 1992 fox iv had the clev for bout a year i can not find any one who has put one in a fox if u get any info let me no and if i get any i will do the same my name is scott and my email is.      [happy hunting]  

Post Reply
New User
Posts: 2
Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/18/09 12:57 PM

For both of you, they fit like they were born to be there. The Cleveland is basically a small block with relation to the motor mounts and bell housing pattern. It's about 100 pounds heavier than a 5.0 but you can trim a lot of that by going aluminum on the intake and heads if your budget allows. Headers too.

Here's what you need to make it fit. Oil pan. the Cleve is a front sump engine stock and the Fox body needs a rear sump pan to make it fit. About 300 bucks with the oil pump pickup. moroso and Canton both make them. Others do as well but those are the two I've used.
Exhaust: If you use an automatic transmission you can use the stock exhaust manifolds. It requires changing the steering shaft to one without that big rubber donut like the one flaming River makes. It's a tight fit and the rubber hits the manifold. you can get headers from Accufab, Hedman, (pn 85620" and a place called CPR, but I think the Accufab headers are made by the same guy. Niether of the accufab or CPR's mid length headers will work with a cable operated clutch but auto's work fine with them. the problem is that the clutch cable will intersect the exact center of the collecter and that thing wont bend around the headers. the accufab long tubes hang down quite a bit and I've flattened both sides on my old ones but the car is lowered too. Stock height cars should't have a problem. Hedman makes a set of long tubes that I'm installing now so I can't tell you how they fit but it looks like they will fit better than anything I've tried so far.
The flywheel is from a windsor with a 28oz imbalance. 5.0 flywheels are 50 oz imbalance so these won't work real easy.
I am using a TKO600 so the flywheel and clutch are ford small block stuff. I have used a c-6 transmission before with a cleveland and it's a tight fit under the floor but it fits with just a teeny bit of rubber hammering. The driveshaft may have to be shortened to fit the c6. Also, grind out the tack welds on the transmission mount cross member so you can slide it back and forth a bit until you get the transmission settled in then reweld it or not. The T-5 and Tremec had no problems but the c6 needed a move of about an inch which is built into the crossmember just in case. The newer power steering pump will work if you grind a little out of the front of the stock cleveland power steering pump bracket. Won't take much and works well. the old style pully will slide right on the pump shaft. Be careful to add a small spacer between the steering pump bracket and the head since the old style bracket is designed to mount up with an air conditioner bracket. If you snug the pully on the new pump like it should the pully will be too close to the block and light cause some wear on the belt. I almost forgot. The stock 5.0 motor mounts will work but you need to add a 5/8 inch spacer between the mount and the block.  Stacks of washers work great or you can have a spacer made.

That's it in a nutshell. If you have any other questions please ask. I've done this three times and this rework I'm doing is a 410 forged stroker Cleveland and I hope to have it done this month or next.  

Post Reply
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 06/09
Posted: 06/16/09 04:04 PM


Post Reply