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better MPG mods?

 
waynep71222
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Posts: 166
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 10/29/12 05:34 AM

perhaps this will help ..

0900C1528004df15  

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littleNGNthatcould
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Posts: 23
Joined: 08/12
Posted: 11/01/12 03:18 AM

awesome wayne! your a wealth of knowledge! ordered the Dorman/Pre-Heater Hose. as for the diagram, wont be able to check that out until it gets a bit warmer then 52F then with superstorm sandy, didnt help none. ill get back with you any updates, or questions hopefully within the next 2 weeks  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 166
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Posted: 11/01/12 06:55 AM

hope you and everybody else survives sandy..

looks like turning OFF the natural gas valve at the meter is a good idea also... so when basements flood there is NO gas to be released..

the gas companies might need to create break away shut off valves for flood and hurricane areas  less than 20 feet above sea level so when the house is moved or lifted off its foundation. the valve disconnects and the valve shuts off the flow..


the houses that caught fire... makes me wonder if the water heaters or the boilers or furnaces floated breaking the gas pipe and filling the house with natural gas until it found an ignition source...  

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littleNGNthatcould
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Posts: 23
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Posted: 11/08/12 07:31 PM

ya, we didnt get hit at all here in York PA, thought for sure my daughters swing set would be gone, but not even the vinyl roof thing on it moved. but we were prepared just in case. but thanks for your concern.  

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pepsi1
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Posts: 94
Joined: 10/11
Posted: 11/09/12 06:10 PM

Littlengn:
Do you know what rear gear ratio you have? The Gearvendors, have some nice OD's that fit really nice under the body. They can handle 1000FtLBS torque too.

Bob
I live in western Mass. The wind and rain was blinding at times. It was still windy. Yesterday it snowed and sleet. Today Friday the 9th 50* but still very windy.  

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littleNGNthatcould
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Posts: 23
Joined: 08/12
Posted: 11/11/12 04:55 PM

honestly pepsi, i don know, but i do know it is the original 7.5 rear untouched, and if this info helps, (5spd, LX, 5.0 HO 4V) also @ 65mph my rpm says 1800  

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littleNGNthatcould
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Posts: 23
Joined: 08/12
Posted: 11/15/12 03:39 AM

ok guys for those who are interested, quick update, last 2 tanks of gas have been pretty close, still using 93 grade, i have ave. 21.43 and 21.48 mpg in the last 2weeks with temps between 28-51F i work 3rd shift so no sunlight for me. again thats cruising @ 60-65mph 1750-2000rpm.
1 more thing, so i've been doing some google searching and i really like the idea of a phenolic/plastic Carb spacer, especially for the goal in mind. but it seems ill need to bolt on my fiberglass hood for that mod. also i think im going to bite the bullet and buy the ford racing alum. driveshaft as im having no luck with ebay/craigslist. and then i guess in spring ill do the Tubular K-member/A arms/upper&lower control arms. while im at it might as well slap on the Weld wheels, along with the flaming rivers steering shaft & rack&pinion. really hope to achieve that 30mpg by summer time.  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 166
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 11/15/12 07:58 AM

say...  i am taking that you have the motor craft/holley 4180...

can you verify those idle air bleeds.. both infront of the air horn and inside the air horn are CLEAN..

use some brake cleaner with the spray nozzle held down tight over the opening..  somebody holding the engine at increased rpm... just quick shots..  so you don't stall the motor..

the red dots in the image above are in front of the air horn .. and if you don't have an air cleaner mounting gasket they will get filled with crud..  and the black dots on the air bleeds inside the air horn..

on my 460.. its like the fuel gauge is broken.. i seem to be able to drive for days on the same fuel that would have been done in 20 minutes..

you can prope a piece of 0.023 wire feed welding wire through them to verify they are open..  

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littleNGNthatcould
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Posted: 11/17/12 03:22 AM

waynep, my 2nd vehicle (84 EXP turbo) was involved in a hit and run 2 friday nights ago. therefore i cant chance pulling apart my mustang at the moment and then juggling in 2 kids, and 2 jobs, with these horribly cold temps. make it very difficult but i am in the process of buying another EXP hopefully afterward Vinny can rest long enough for me to pull his carb and go at it again.  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 166
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Posted: 11/17/12 05:20 AM

wow... sorry about the loss of the exp...  i had not thought of those in years...... i hope your insurance covered the loss... uninsured motorist coverage usually is what kicks in..   the adjuster may not tell you that is the section that covers hit and runs...

for the rest... this is what an exp turbo like under the hood...


100 2141  

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littleNGNthatcould
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Posts: 23
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Posted: 11/17/12 08:18 AM

Picture317
Picture319

on this picture, you see where the oil stains are on the street? thats about where she was parked.
Picture324  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 166
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Posted: 11/17/12 06:00 PM

did you get the Number of that train...  must have left some damage on the hit and run car..


i would almost bet that if you could get at the inertia switch and could reset it.. that it would start and run..    less the drag of the crushed rear end..

i take it that you are going to attempt to save as much of the undamaged parts as you can..  

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waynep71222
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Posts: 166
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 11/17/12 06:07 PM

oh... and i know my post got mis understood..

my post was to use some brake or carb spray..   spray it through the 2 air bleeds infront of the air horn..  and the 4 air bleeds inside the air horn... as in my images... this only involves a few minutes and only the air cleaner lID and the filter element out.. not the entire air cleaner housing..  

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littleNGNthatcould
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Posts: 23
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Posted: 04/04/13 04:10 PM

back from a long cold hard winter, i have been doing alittle reading and some homework but still left with a few questions. so hopefully you guys have an answer or 2 to help me out.so the temps are getting a tad warmer and my mpg is getting back up, but im down to 3 maybe 4 last mods to consider for BETTER MPG

*gt40/gt40p heads with roller rockers, have any of you who've done this swap, notice a decrease in economy vs. normal heads? i know its hard to resist dropping the hammer on new found power but in identical driving behavior has it affected MPG negatively, if so how badly?
*edelbrock performer RPM, the shop that just rebuilt my spare factory holley suggested this, to keep my powerband at a higher RPM since i only drive between 1k-2k rpm (most of the time) is this good advice in ref. to increasing MPG?
* would an 89-92 long block yield better economy in carb form over my current 84 motor?  

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waynep712222
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Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 04/04/13 09:54 PM

if you really want to swap motors...  go to the 96 yo i think 98 explorer 5.0 motors..

swap your intake..  and ignition..

attempt to use the explorer short headers...     as i think the explorers have the GT40 heads..

so you will need the matching exhaust manifolds.. there is something slightly different ...

since you are operating the engine at a very LOW speed...

why have a 4 barrel....  create an adaptor and find a 1.02 or 1.08 motorcraft 2 barrel.. or a holley 350 2 barrel.. if you want a 4 barrel.. go to a holley 390 CFM 4 barrel.. or a demon jr.. that uses the same size primary as the 390 holley and the secondaries the same as probably a 650 or 700 CFM..  lets you operate the engine on the more of the main circuits where the calibrations is with the main jets.. instead of the idle transition circuits that are NOT easily adjustable..



the only way to really tweak the fuel economy out is to monitor the exhaust stream for air fuel ratio....   if you can get the oxygen sensor bungs installed close to the exhaust manifold outlets.. within about 6 or 7 inches.. you can use a single wire sensor.. but for a few bucks more... use a 3 wire sensor from a 95 chevy pickup 5.7 application..  they are about 50 bucks..  you will probably need to find a a connector for it.. or cut and splice it.... you will need to power the oxygen sensor heater circuit with a relay.. and ground the  the other wire and hook the sensor output wire to the air fuel ratio gauge...  this will allow you to really get into what the air fuel ratio is doing at idle...   during idle transition...  and during idle transition to main circuits..

this is a sunpro CP8200


this is a 15700 bosch at around 44 bucks..




there is a universal fit with a bunch of proper connectors bosch #15726... that would also work..
but its 57 bucks..

 

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