MENU Subscribe to a Magazine
  • Sign in
  • Join

Subscribe to Print or Digital! Save up to 83%

Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords Magazine Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
Mustang Monthly Magazine Mustang Monthly
5.0 Mustang & Super Fords Magazine 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine Modified Mustangs & Fords
  • Print Subscriptions
  • Digital Subscriptions
  • Gift Subscriptions
  • Subscriber Services
  • Back Issues
  • Personalized Cover
  • Subscribe to a Magazine
Item Posts    Sort Order

check engine light

 
myredpony
New User
Posts: 9
Joined: 01/11
Posted: 08/29/12 03:05 PM

Someone my have covered this before, but I'll ask anyway....

On my 94 Cobra w/ five speed, I had to put all of the somg stuff back on when I moved back to Ca.  I now live in Texas and smog is not an issue.  The motor is stock now with 92000 on the odometer.  I would like to reinstall my BBK long tube headers with high flow cats, Along with 70mm Throttle body, cold air and 75mm mass air meter.  I need to put a new fuel pump in it anyway and an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.  The BBK headers do not have a location for the EGR, so the last time I capped it off at the manifold, and the check engine light became a normal feature.  I can weld up a bung to attatch the EGR, but I was thinking, what if I pulled the smog pump, tubes and left the EGR off, How would it run?  Is there a manufacturer I can have burn a chip to bypass the smog?  What would be the problems with pulling the smog, performance and mileage wise?  Is there anything else I should consider?

Also, has anyone used BBKs SSI series cross-ram style intake, is it any better than the GT40 intake my Cobra came stock with?  I presume it will not fit under my stock hood.  I just think it looks cool, but won't spend money on it if it offers no improvement.

Thanks for the info, your last tips saved me!  

Post Reply
waynep71222
User
Posts: 166
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 08/30/12 06:50 AM

this requires a LONG answer that i will attempt to get to in the next day or two...

please reply that you are still watching this thread...  i think i probably covered some of it earlier.

but if you remove those items... you will need a one of the race computers.. that does NOT have a LOT of self tests to prove that the systems are working..  where can you get one of those ????  that is out of  my range of knowledge...   perhaps somebody else will know...  and post..   you might start calling suppliers in the magazine printed issues you have laying around..  

Post Reply
myredpony
New User
Posts: 9
Joined: 01/11
Posted: 08/30/12 07:30 AM

Thanks! yeah, I'm still interested in hearing more!  

Post Reply
myredpony
New User
Posts: 9
Joined: 01/11
Posted: 08/30/12 07:38 AM

If I remember correctly the computer (OBD 1) was designed and built specifically for the 94 Cobra, and is not the same for the GT, I think Hypertech built it.  I know in some of the articles, they have replaced the computor with a 1993 or earlier unit, but I really didn't want to get into switching out computors.  Elecrical and computer stuff is not my forte by any streatch of the immagination.  Fixing the fusable links a couple months ago really had me worried!  The electronics in the car really confound me, I'm more of an old school guy, but I've had this car since 95 and I really like it.  I've had opportunities to sell it and get a 66, 68, or 69 and never went through with it because I really like this Mustang!  

Post Reply
waynep71222
User
Posts: 166
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 08/30/12 07:46 PM

find an EEC4 theory book...

read up on how each circuit or device works... and how it works with the other parts... and how the computer does SELF TESTS every time you start the engine... to verify that each of the specified devices is working properly..

i still have a bunch of house guests...  but they are buzy...

the air injection system is cycled  during its self test..  dumping air into the upstream exhaust manifolds.. the change in oxygen sensor voltage verify that the additional airflow is there..  or it will set a code. and also back off the fuel trim.. reducing MPH and those ever so needed horse power numbers...


the EGR system is tested in the same way.. its opened .. changes in the oxygen sensor voltage and the EGR position sensor voltage verify that the EGR system is working...

without this.. you will have a check engine light...

off road computers might plug in.. changing the computer is something that is not hard...

what's hard is the temptation to send your perfectly good working computer out for mods...

i would never advise sending a STOCK computer and the only one you have out for mods...

buy another...  just yards are full of them.. just call with the part number on yours.. ask if they have a WXYZ brain box..    some times you may find one of the off road boxes.. as the modified cars that have those.. end up in dismantlers also..  

Post Reply
n4speed50
New User
Posts: 5
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/21/13 07:18 AM

The EGR does not effect performance so just use some shorty headers with the EGR tube hookup..if the light still comes on you will have to check the system for proper voltage anyway. With the 1994 and up most any change will cause the check engine light to come on and a poor idle. You can change the ECU to a 1993 or earlier and that will allow for some performance changes. The BBK intake will not work very well with a close to stock motor..too much flow so just stick with the GT40. Geoff at Need for Speed  

Post Reply
oamo111
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/15/13 07:54 AM

Hello guys..if you check the engine light than what is the main purpose to check the light?Some time light is go to the wrong its happened when the light is not doing work properly...


Authorized Dealeres  

Post Reply
myredpony
New User
Posts: 9
Joined: 01/11
Posted: 08/15/13 10:20 AM

Geoff, thanks for the info on the intake.  I always liked the way the SSI looked, but wondered if it really was an improvement as I have never seen anyone use that model, the R model seems to be the next best chioce after Trick Flow, Holley, or Edelbrock.  I am looking to start building a new bottom end for the car and am wondering wether I should build a 331,347 or buy a budget 351W to replace the stock 5.0, or if I should keep saving money and put in a professionally built stroker.  What I have seen from the dyno tests in the magazines seems to show that regardless of the displacement, the cam and head combo seems to make all of the power.  Realistically, I should keep the hp to the 350 range, as I don't have the budget or time to start replacing transmissions, driveshafts, or rear ends.  The car is used as a show car and occational driver.  I don't live close enough to any tracks to get into drag or roadracing.

Once again, thanks for the info!  

Post Reply
myredpony
New User
Posts: 9
Joined: 01/11
Posted: 09/27/13 09:26 AM

Very good question.  Ford says......??????????  

Post Reply