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Item Posts    Sort Order

My 94 mustang turns off :(

 
jcerv168
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/03/13 07:30 PM

Okay so I have 1994 Mustang GT 5.0 and while running it like in 25 minutes once I'm running it wants to turn off and then I press down the accelerator and it keeps on going but then once it wants to turn off again I press the accelerator and it completely shuts off and when  it's off and wants to turn it back on it looks like it doesn't have enough battery to start i have to wait till it cools down and then I can turn it on. But sucks because I can't even use it cause in 25 minutes it turns off I changed the ignition ignitor cause I heard it was that and still didn't work and I doubt it's the gas pump?  

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Jostang
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/03/13 07:52 PM

Control module on passenger side fender. It's right up under your air box  

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jcerv168
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/03/13 07:54 PM

Thank you so much!!!  

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jcerv168
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/03/13 07:59 PM

How does it look?  

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jcerv168
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/03/13 08:05 PM

I've changed the ignition coil  

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jcerv168
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/03/13 08:08 PM

I have also changed the distributors pick up coil  

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waynep712222
User
Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/03/13 09:15 PM

wow... i was over at the other 10 or 12 forums i cover and ..

do you have a digital volt meter you can use...

there are a few things that i don't understand from your description yet...

let me give you a few minutes worth of stuff to check.. that is beginning of any diagnosis.

engine running.. headlights on..  digital volt meter set to 20 volts DC..

1. Negative battery post to positive battery post.. 14.1 to 14.8 volts DC.

2. Negative battery post to the engine block.. 0.04 volts DC MAX..

3. Negative battery post to the body...  0.02 volts DC MAX..

4. Engine block to the body... 0.02 volts DC max...

post results...  

1.....

2...

3...

4...

if you get 0.00 on tests 2, 3, 4 reset volt meter to 2 volts DC.. and retest..

it actually took me longer to type this that it will take you to run this test to PROVE or DISPROVE the ground cables are intact..  

you would not believe the amount of work and parts they have thrown at cars because these basic grounds are loose...........

so... start there.. if you have a digital volt meter.. it takes less than 2 minutes ...  

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waynep712222
User
Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/03/13 09:42 PM

please DO NOT SKIP the test above...

ground locations that need cleaning.. and inspection... then reinstalling

1992Mustang50batterycablegrounds

92 Mustang 50 Eeciv Wiringlocator Zps3451be8b  

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waynep712222
User
Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/03/13 09:50 PM

do you see the green stud... make sure its clean.. by counting wires and taking them off.. wire brushing both sides of the ring terminals.. wire brushing the stud and the back of the nut... reassemble.. there is sometimes an additonal ground wire thats UNDER the stud.. if you see one.. take the stud out.. and wire brush everthing there..

2001Rangerfirewallgroundstrap

1992Mustangunderdashharness

[im g]http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/waynep712/92_mustang_50_componentlocator_zps9025fcf1.jpg?t=1376674654[/img]

92 Mustang50ecmconnector Zpsbf55ea49

with a 94... or even a 95.. anything newer than 1984 with fuel injection.. you will need at least a code reader to run the KOEO and KOER tests...

Cp9115foreeciv KOEO Koertesting Zps6f1f70a0


and again.. why am i give you all these ground locations to clean...

which would you rather ***    spend an hour cleaning the ground connections.. or paying a shop to replace everything in sight.. for hundreds if not thousands of dollars... and then not tell you that it was just a dirty ground..

this is where i start on every car... when its acting strange...  

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waynep712222
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Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/03/13 10:00 PM

you will also want to check these connectors on the top of the motor...

92 Mustang50dashharnesstoengine Zps6b8bd958

there have been people who found that the female terminals had opened slightly.. allowing intermittent contact with the male terminal..

closing the bent open C shaped terminals into a o shaped terminal so it gets a good grip on the other side is always a good idea...  

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waynep712222
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Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/03/13 10:01 PM

88Mustangefiharness Zpsd8a5c042

1995 Mustang 50Engineharness Zpsa2c34211  

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waynep712222
User
Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/03/13 10:05 PM

is this an AHHA!!!! moment???

you could have fuel pump issues.. fuel pump relay issues..  main relay issues..

ignition switch issues...  but those all cost money for replacement parts..

and some of the relays on 94 and 95 mustangs are in the CCRM.. the big black box on the inner fender in front of the shock tower...  

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jcerv168
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 09/13
Posted: 09/04/13 07:12 AM

Thank you!!!! So much I appreciate all your guys help but I think it's the control module I check what happens when it goes bad and it does the same thing when it goes bad  

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waynep712222
User
Posts: 124
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 09/04/13 04:06 PM

i have just thought of the words to why to check all the grounds..


would you expect anything to work if the negative cable is not connected to the battery???  same thing... these are all the negative connections to the battery..


and just because its bolted down .. does not mean is electrically connected..

i know that it would make sense... but i have found that looks are not always what they seem to be...
and it could  very well be the ignition control module.. or even its ground connection..

it makes ground to complete the circuit thru the ignition primary winding.. this saturates the primary winding..   when the ground connection is opened up..the electrons stop flowing.. the magnetic field collapses and a spark is born...

this has to happen 4 times per crank revolution..  10 to 14 amps rushing thru the ignition module.. to the primary winding in the coil then shut off.. then again.. then off.. and again..  

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