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Let's Talk Intake 302 V8

 
Gregski
Enthusiast
Posts: 475
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 05/23/10 01:30 PM

So I am buttoning things up nicely on my '76 302 V8, next to go on is the intake manifold (part # D50E-9425-GA). You all helped me before with similar questions so you shouldn't even flinch when reading these.

What are the little pieces for in the middle of the second gasket picture below?

Does the intake gasket go on dry or do I put some concocktion on it, if so what?

What's the sheet metal cover on it's belly for, can you take it off, if so how?

The small hole in the middle in addition to routing some exhaust back in, to be burned again, is it to balance the exhaust flow in the two heads?

Aside from not having the EGR port on the top do the First Generation 60's 2V intakes flow better than the Mustang II era ones?

Intakegaster1

Intakegaster2

Intakedrive1

Intaketop  

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waynep7122
Guru
Posts: 774
Joined: 01/10
Posted: 05/23/10 03:22 PM

thats a good idea....  block off both sides of the exhaust crossover... fill the opening just below the carb with some silicone...  not a lot.. just some...   run what ever spacer you want... since this is going to run just in your garage...

are you going to find some later model exhaust manifolds and down pipes... with oxygen sensor bungs... so you can fire it up and examine the fuel mixture changes...   if you do.. you might really want to put on a 4 bbl intake...  they were available on the 83 to 85 HO 5.0 motors... with a holley 4180 model carb.. square flange..

this way you could test various carbs on your mule...   look at the air fuel ratio....  do carb rebuilding and testing before it leaves your garage...

did you get a bell housing with your motor???    can you use transfer punches to center punch the starter alignment on a chunk of 3/8 or 1/2" plate... then the block plate to mark the center hole for the starter... this way you could mount a starter on the engine on your stand...  without having to mount a bell housing...

look around.. see if there are any engine core suppliers in your area...   or check CL for a 4 bbl sbf intake.. be sure to measure the distance between the heads as there are 2 different intakes.. one for 289/302 motors and the other for 351W motors.. the 351W manifolds are wider..  just a thought...


i was looking at a shop this week... i am planning on a test mule for my shop... carb testing... but i may have to have several mules...  one ford one chevy.. so i can test distributers... oh wait.. i own a distributer machine..  i only need one for carb testing..  

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mechanicalguy48
Guru
Posts: 854
Joined: 12/07
Posted: 05/23/10 09:03 PM

What are the little pieces for in the middle of the second gasket picture below?

They are just gasket stampings left over, ignore them.

Does the intake gasket go on dry or do I put some concocktion on it, if so what?

I use something called "The right stuff" which is a terrific product. Use it around the water crossovers and instead of using the end gaskets on the manifold run a bead of "The right stuff" along both ends and discard the end gaskets.

What's the sheet metal cover on it's belly for, can you take it off, if so how?

Its an oil splash shield to cover the exhaust crossover. In the days before the shields, oil would splash up around the crossover and be burned and cake onto the manifold. This helps keep the manifold and oil cleaner by keeping it away from the intense heat of the crossover.

The small hole in the middle in addition to routing some exhaust back in, to be burned again, is it to balance the exhaust flow in the two heads?

No, its not for balance its for heating the floor of the manifold. In Cold climates it helps tremendously to keep your engine running and not form ice below the venturi. Icing is more common in the climates like Michigan's. Probably not much of a problem in California, but I advise against blocking the crossover.

Aside from not having the EGR port on the top do the First Generation 60's 2V intakes flow better than the Mustang II era ones?

They are the same castings, with minor differences so no, they don't flow better or worse.  

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Gregski
Enthusiast
Posts: 475
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 05/24/10 08:16 PM

Apparently my questions 1 and 4 are related:

What are the little pieces for in the middle of the second gasket picture below?

"They are to open or block the heat riser passages. If you live in a warm area, block 'em off. If you're going to run it in the cold, leave 'em open."  Thanks 23Alt from another forum.

The small hole in the middle in addition to routing some exhaust back in, to be burned again, is it to balance the exhaust flow in the two heads?

The small port in the middle is an exhaust crossover to help atomize the fuel better when cold, nearly all factory intakes have it. If you live in a warmer climate, you can block off that crossover and help performance slightly by keeping the intake charge cooler, so goes the theory anyway.

The exhaust "crossover" or "heat riser passage" is not there for the EGR. It is there to heat the carb to prevent icing and help engine warm up. When the EGR came along they just taped into the crossover passage.  

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Gregski
Enthusiast
Posts: 475
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 07/08/10 12:37 AM

well it's been a while, but after a couple detours, like learning how to weld, and building my own engine test stand, I finally got back to matters at hand, so here's a picture update of the intake manifold going back on, and don't be afraid to visit my web page where you can see more pictures of this project, and thanks for looking and your comments

http://www.gregandsandy.com/302/intake.htm

DSCN4199

look at all the crud that came out when I pressure washed the water passage

DSCN4211

cleaning up the gasket surface

DSCN4252

someone gave me a great tip to use four studs as guides, see if you can spot them

DSCN4259

I used Permatex Ultra Copper RTV Silicone, just because that's what I had left over, not sure I dabbed it right, you be the judge.  

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cushman350
Enthusiast
Posts: 648
Joined: 07/06
Posted: 07/08/10 07:52 AM

mechanicalguy48 IMO is right on, "I use something called "The right stuff" which is a terrific product. Use it around the water crossovers and instead of using the end gaskets on the manifold run a bead of "The right stuff" along both ends and discard the end gaskets."

With a clean surface and a bead of sealer tall enough to fill the gap, will perform better than the cork gaskets.  

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