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Any tips on removing stuck valve covers?

 
Gregski
Enthusiast
Posts: 475
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 04/07/10 09:13 PM

Any tips on how to remove stuck stock valve covers on a good ol' 302 V8 that has been sitting around for years.  

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67grnhornet
New User
Posts: 29
Joined: 02/10
Posted: 04/08/10 05:32 AM

There are no shortage of ideas, spray the seal with gunk remover and let it sit,insert a chisel or slim metal scraper, apply heat, apply cold, apply a HAMMER, but I would 1st want to go what you tried already and most importanatly, why do you think that they are stuck...ie : rusted, damaged ?

  In truth, I have found that most stuck parts that I wish to preserve are best helped first by:

1) cleaning the area around the part
2) application of some kind of penetrant, warm soapy water, wd-40, various gunk removers and/or penetrating oils - depends on the parts
3) applying hold and cold, this can be water, ice , a small lighter or a torch
4) repeating these steps before lastly applying force.

You may want to let it sit for a while between strategies.

I also try to have the right tools for the job and lotsa patience.

If that fails beat the Ford outta those old covers with a rubber mallet !  

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waynep7122
Guru
Posts: 774
Joined: 01/10
Posted: 04/08/10 06:31 AM

#1... make sure all the bolts are out...

#2... refer to #1 and remove the stud bolts that hold the valve covers down...

#3    tap with a rubber mallet to the side..   tap harder and around the different areas..

#4    cuss me out.. as that must be one of the motors that i glued the valve covers down with 2 layers of super weather strip adhesive..

#5    when all else fails...   expletives..   lots of them.. they are free... be careful who hears them... couches are designed for sitting.. not really sleeping..  

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mjb1032
User
Posts: 181
Joined: 12/07
Posted: 04/08/10 08:32 AM

One word of caution on the previous answers.
Don't use a torch or flame near penetrating oil or WD40.....
that stuff is highly flamable.

Remove bolts....
Beat on the covers with a rubber mallet....
Replace damaged covers with new ones  Laugh  

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Gregski
Enthusiast
Posts: 475
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 04/09/10 11:14 PM

Thanks for all the help, I tried a little bit of everything. I tried tapping with the rubber hammer, but that wasn't working probably cause I was impatient and didn't drum long enough, so I moved on to the 2x4 and some gentle persuasion, ie hammer, that didn't work either because I didn't have good angles or a place to really wedge that 2x4, so I opted for the good ol' fashion flat screwdriver and that did the tick. I pretty much accepted the fact that I would need new gaskets.



Here's some pics:

95725D1270883169 Any Tips Removing Stuck Valve Covers Head1 4

95726D1270883169 Any Tips Removing Stuck Valve Covers Head5 8

95727D1270883169 Any Tips Removing Stuck Valve Covers Valvecover1 4  

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waynep7122
Guru
Posts: 774
Joined: 01/10
Posted: 04/10/10 08:38 AM

wow.. thats the cleanest motor inside i have seen in years....

the only other motor i have ever seen that clean inside.. was a motor that used mobil one motor oil...  



to glue the new gaskets on..

use black super weather strip adhesive...   spread it only on the face of the valve cover... dip and smear the new gasket into it.. separate them...    wait a minute..    with care.. and 2 hands, Place the gasket back into its final location.. you only have a few seconds to move it a tiny *** but its going to stick...  

i normally after i glue the gasket on.. lay the valve cover on the gasket side down..  usually setting something heavy one it..  but using care to not displace the gasket..      and let it set for 10 minutes before i install it...  this lets the glue set totally flat..  

since this is a motor on the floor...    you probably don't want to use any sealer between the gasket and the cylinder head..   never use the super weather strip against the head..  makes it to hard to clean it off.


examine you valve cover hold down bolt holes.. if they are dented from over tightening..    use a tiny ball pein hammer or a tac hammer to gently tap it until it is totally flat..    this is done before you glue the gasket on...  

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Gregski
Enthusiast
Posts: 475
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 07/10/10 05:50 PM

How much should I torque the valve cover bolts to?  The Haynes manual does not say, it mentions something called "Rocker Cover" I wonder if that's what they call the Valve Cover?  

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Gregski
Enthusiast
Posts: 475
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 07/14/10 09:23 AM

Since those 5/16 bolts were the same as the bigger ones on the oil pan I torqued them down to 12 foot pounds like the oil pan specs (and that felt snug) but I would appreciate it if someone could confirm that for me by checking one of your manuals.  

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jlg2002
Guru
Posts: 1410
Joined: 03/08
Posted: 07/14/10 12:00 PM

Yeah, Wayne it looks like it hasn't been run for a while as well.  

Gregski, Another trick an old timer taught me 30 + years ago was to lightly coat the head or engine sides of the gasket with axle grease. It help it slide around some and self-position as it tightens down. Don't over torque the screws (#1 cause of leakage) jlg  

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slud
New User
Posts: 37
Joined: 05/10
Posted: 07/14/10 12:09 PM

Motors [circa 1968] says 3-5 ft lbs.  

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jlg2002
Guru
Posts: 1410
Joined: 03/08
Posted: 07/15/10 02:47 PM

3-5 ft lbs per the 1966 Ford FSM (agrees with Motors manual) jlg  

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