MENU Subscribe to a Magazine
  • Sign in
  • Join

Subscribe to Print or Digital! Save up to 83%

Magazine Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
Magazine Mustang Monthly
Magazine 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
Magazine Modified Mustangs & Fords
  • Print Subscriptions
  • Digital Subscriptions
  • Gift Subscriptions
  • Subscriber Services
  • Back Issues
  • Personalized Cover
  • Subscribe to a Magazine
Item Posts    Sort Order

Disc brake calipers convert

Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 10/06/12 08:36 AM

Does anyone know what calipers you can convert onto Granada spindles? I have converted to Granada spindles and single piston calipers and want to get more braking with a different caliper. I want to use 2 or 4 piston instead on single. if this possible with out changing the spindles I have ?  

Post Reply
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 10/06/12 10:43 AM

there are all kinds of answers to your questions.. but i have a question first..

when you do a panic stop...   can you get all 4 tires to start skidding at the same time...

or does the front or the rear start skidding first..

this usually requires some  tape stripes on the tires.. and a smart friend to watch.. even a cam corder set on 1000 frames per second as you drive past and start the braking attempt..
set the video camera back far enough so you are not in and out of the frame before you start your test..

read up on brake bias...

when ford was building these and other models.. they used various wheel cylinder sizes to adjust brake bias.. they also used different widths of brake shoes...

if it needed more stopping power on the rears.. they went to larger wheel cylinder and/or wider brake shoes..   warning some drums have room for the wider shoes some don't..

there are all kind of sizes to choose from...  this in my opinion is a better way to adjust braking operation than an adjustable pressure valve for the rear brakes.  but it could get expensive..

tire size... diameter.. width and contact patch also effect braking... so if you have front runners..  you are going to need as much braking as you can on the rears.. and reduce the brake force significantly..

stock car guys run a tandem master... with a single push rod from the brake pedal.. they can adjust the single pushbar to crossbar adjustment to change brake bias.. if the bar is in the middle.. it will be 50/50... if you move it one way.. it will start at 55/45,, then 60/40, then 65/35.. or it can go the other direction..  some cars have actual pressure gauges to monitor the braking hydraulic pressure..   i don't know if they still run them.. but  they used to run a second set of brake hoses and lines..  but the second set was connected to the bleeder screw port in the caliper..  there were check valves either in lines or in a specialized block... so when you applied the brakes.. the fluid would flow through the normal tube into the caliper..  when you released. the check valve in the normal line would prevent the return flow that way.. the return flow would be released through the bleeder port.. back through the second system to get to the master where any air or steam bubbles would be released hopefully through the holes in the top of the master cylinder bore..  this basicly bled the brakes each time you applied them..     get the brakes really hot.. pump the pedal. cooler fluid would circulate through the system..
i personally would be a mad man with multiple additional holes drilled in the master cylinder and deburred..  so i knew that there was a lot of open area to release the trapped bubbles.

wait.. sorry.. you did not ask for all of this...  

Post Reply
Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 10/07/12 08:23 AM

What I did was swap drum for disc and installed a new power dual master and I cannot get the brakes to lock up on hard stop. The car does want to die when I hit the brakes hard, which i know is a vacuum issue.
I was thinking I could use different calibers to improve the braking.  

Post Reply