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72 Mustang 351C 2V Starting issues.

 
Gibson_Junk
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 10/12
Posted: 10/22/12 05:18 PM

I can take pictures if necessary but heres the issue. I bought 72 mustang for 1200 has some rust issues not horrible right for the price. 351C V2 Engine in it with a rebuilt engine and tranny. I ran her dry on accident and now she wont start and stay running. I am thinking that the fuel line is clogged. But when I disconnected the line from  the tank to the pump gas came out then stopped. Maybe it is clogged? I haven't pulled the pump off yet to check the condition but a visual inspect it looked fine. It turns over fine as well.

Another questing is when I put it in park(Automatic) I can push the car forward still but here a clicking noise. Why am I able to push it forward? Most likely the brakes need redone?  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 10/22/12 08:11 PM

a few things...

Unplug the positive wire off the coil so NO sparks can be created...

disconnect the fuel line at the carb inlet...

extend the fuel line into a clean clear plastic soda bottle... 2 or 3 liter...  clean as you can pour it back into the tank... its not cheep

have somebody crank the engine for 15 seconds... while you observe the pulses of fuel from the end of the hose into the bottle...  each pulse should be nice and full..  same as the others..

not diminishing..  if it diminishes.. you have a restriction someplace in the fuel system.. crushed fuel line under the car.. kinked fuel hose...  hole in the fuel hose or line allowing air in...  clogged or missing screen in the tank....

you should get a PINT of fuel into the bottle in that 15 seconds of cranking...

post what happens..

the full flow test really flows the fuel up from the tank...

i have had to install fuel injection type of fuel filters just before the fuel pump along with magnets to catch the sediment..

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

next.. the gear shifter... i am taking that you have a console shift..   i have seen a few with column shift..  

you will need to check your motor mounts.. and the transmission mounts...

then readjust the shifter linkage...

if you have a column shift..  there is a relay device under the steering column under the master cylinder in the engine bay... the bushings go bad on those..

but if you are getting ratcheting noise.. you probably have the console shifter and the linkage is out of adjustment..

there is a small chance that the shift quadrant inside the transmission has come loose on the manual lever shaft..  that will also cause that..

with the shift rod disconnected... how does the shifter lever feel on the side of the transmission...  

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Gibson_Junk
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 10/12
Posted: 10/22/12 09:11 PM

Will preform this in the morning and get back to you thanks  

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Gibson_Junk
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 10/12
Posted: 11/12/12 04:58 PM

Sorry for such a long delay. I went on vacation lol Anyway, I replaced all my plugs and wires Just because it needed it. And set the point gap back to .017" as it was off a little bit. And Plugs at .34. cranked her up and idled for 3 seconds and died. Removed the wire from the coil and then disconnected the fuel filter from the carb and cranked away. Low and behold not a drop of gas came out...... I believe this to be fuel pump issue since I drove it a week before this thread. Time to chip out some bucks for a pump and filter and see where it lands me.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 11/12/12 10:26 PM

please install a LOOP of fuel line between the fuel line and the inlet of the fuel pump..

in the loop of fuel line.. please install a fuel injection type of inline fuel filter..

this is an FF745.. around 10 or 12 bucks at most parts stores..

FF745

fuel hose will push right on  over the ridges and clamp..
you might also want to replace the fuel filter at the carb... and use the new fuel line.. or pick up a foot of 5/16 fuel injection line and use proper screw clamps..  not the SQUEEZE clamps..

once the new pump is in...



do a full flow test i may have mentioned before..

disconnect the ignition coil primary wiring.. so no spark can be created...

extend the fuel line into the clean clear plastic 2 or 3 liter bottle..

crank for 15 seconds...

it may take 2 tries to get fuel up from the tank... with the line open...    you can also blow into the TANK.. don't inhale..   you will want to release very slowly..  so you don't end up with a FACE and nose/mouth full of gasoline..   that is if you can reach it...


you should get nice full pulses of fuel... each equal...

please pick up some extra fuel hose and replace it back at the tank.. and the hidden section under the middle of the car where the 2 lines are connected..

you could have a microscopic hole in the steel fuel lines.. allowing air in...

a hole in the fuel hose under the car could be an issue also...

if you have an old speaker thats junk... break the magnet off and stick it to the bottom of the tank.. so it will attract any Red dUST to in..  it works trust me on that..  use as big a speaker magnet as you can get..  if you have the sending unit out at any time in the future.. drop some super magnets in and verify they fall to the bottom of the tank away from the sending unit arm..  

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Gibson_Junk
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 10/12
Posted: 11/17/12 12:30 PM

Alrighty, I did all suggestions here. Tested showed no fuel getting to the carb. Not even a drop. Tested filter at the carb. I couldn't even get much air through it. Replaced that and the line running between it and the fuel pump. Replaced the pump after making sure the fuel was clean and was not bringing particles to it. Put a inline filter in it. Tested the fuel flow test. Plently of fuel making it to the carb. Hooked her up and she purred like she was meant too. Thank you all for your help. No I am about to go out jack her up and check the linkage. Sorry it takes me so long as I only have weekends really to work on her.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 11/17/12 06:51 PM

Who Hoo... its alive..

stick a magnet on the bottom of the tank anyway...  

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Gibson_Junk
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 10/12
Posted: 12/02/12 07:18 PM

Advice taken !! One big magnet from a 15" Speaker on it now lol Next issue is locating a donor car or preferably a roof to replace my old one with.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 12/02/12 08:56 PM

makes you wonder...  roof panels..

have you contacted or checked a bunch of sheet metal suppliers...

i wonder how close the 69/70 fastback roof panel is to yours... as those are available.. thru one  supplier

do you have a wire feed???   people have stitch welded up the holes to fill them...

there are copper paddles that can be held behind them to prevent burn burn through...

or just slice out and replace the rusty areas...  carefully cutting out the piece... without bending it up.. so you can duplicate the bends with a roll former.. an english wheel..  a planishing hammer.. or round head mallets and a leather bag filled with steel shot..  even a ballpein hammer and a log end carved out..

you can use masking tape in layers to copy the size of the hole left in the panel... so you can then trim the sheet you are working with just slightly larger so you don't need to trim as much..  

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