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Any good classic mustang repair shops in So CAL ?

 
Classic65
User
Posts: 83
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 10/07/12 12:58 PM

After driving myself mad trying to fix a problem with my care stalling and rough idle after Hard past thu the gears, (mind you this only happen sometimes)
I need a professional to locate my issue.
I checked the fuel pressure is good no blocks and installed a new Distributor and checked Hi and low voltage.
Still can figure out the problem. Any good classic Mustang repair shops that are reliable and priced competitive in So Cal area?  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 10/07/12 03:00 PM

thats going to require some DYNO runs...  not really a restoration or repair shop...

there are several chassis dynos around so cal.... its still a large place...

i wonder if your secondary is too rich.. and its fouling the plugs when you get heavily into it..

or are the plugs getting fouled when you back off too much from that high speed run....  think of the sprint cup drivers when they had carbs.. in a corner.. flames coming out the exhaust.. thats  excessively high manifold vacuum pulling tremendous amounts of fuel through the idle and the idle transition circuit...

you may also want to verify that the secondaries are actually fully closing and not hanging up slightly open.. allowing air and no fuel in.. causing a rough idle and stalling..

the issue about testing it..  is you are going to need a dyno or a drag strip to duplicate the situation..

or... when it happens...   don't touch the throttle and just shut the key off and coast to the side in neutral... pull some spark plugs... examine the tips for carbon build up... check the carb for proper closure of the secondaries..

does it clear up when you bring the rpms up to about 2500/3000 in neutral THEN hold it steady for 20 to 30 seconds...... so it burns any carbon off the tips...  

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FlyFord
New User
Posts: 19
Joined: 11/07
Posted: 11/29/12 02:58 PM

Adjust your float bowl fuel level they may be too low OR too high  

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FlyFord
New User
Posts: 19
Joined: 11/07
Posted: 11/29/12 02:58 PM

Adjust your float bowl fuel level they may be too low OR too high  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 83
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 01/12/13 08:57 AM

So went and had the car Dyno'd and now the mech said it was running way to rich.
Now its hard to start and back fires through the carb when you try and start it. Mech said its because it a little lean at start up , which I don't believe, It never back fired though carb before this , why now after a Dyno run twice.

I spent Alot of money for this fix and Now after all said and done, the car was home and went to move it into the garage and backing up the car just died and now won't start at all!!

I am at a lost for words and a little fed up  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/12/13 03:00 PM

wow....

thats bad...

i don't recall what your set up is.....

do you have a 347 with a demon carb... roller cam...

still got my number.. lets talk ..  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 83
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 01/13/13 02:41 PM

Yes 347 with Demon card, Flat tappet cam

So changed to old distributor and start first try .......Now after it opp temp
I wen out to start it and move it , and cranks very very slow...

I charged the battery full before I chanced Distributor out also.
**************************************************************************

Left it for a few hours and come out to move it in the driveway for the Night.
Thought I give it a crank and see what happens. Turn of the Key and she fires up....
Run at idle for a minute or two and then she dies, and won't start.

Could this be a ground issue? I have voltage at coil and battery and everything works, that I know of and she was Just dyno too.
Walks away and scratches head....  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/13/13 10:56 PM

ok... LETS DIG DEEP..

pull the battery out...   slip it on the charger at 10 amps while you are doing this..


with a small stainless steel wire brush...     after you have counted the wires on the battery side of the starter relay... take the wires off that side and clean both sides of the ring terminals.... clean the stud... clean the back of the nut...  count the wires and put it back on...


on the ground side...  depending on which battery cable you have on the negative side..

clean the ring terminal at the engine block.. clean the face of the block where it mounts.. clean the back side of the nut..

now... some negative cables have a flag terminal midway down the cable.. this attaches to the body ... others have one at the battery terminal that goes to the body...

all cars need a ground strap between the back of the engine block and the firewall... again.. this needs to be connected properly.... clean the mounting areas.. so it has a GOOD CONNECTION...

print this test....   if you can get it running...   you can do the second half of this test... 1 through 4 in under a minute...

practice on your daily driver if this mustang is not it..

Voltagedroptesting


post your results by number

1._____________

2.______________

3._______________

4._______________

remember... electrons flow from NEGATIVE TO POSITIVE

bad ground connections even though they look good... they could be dirty. a voltage drop test is the ONLY way to really tell...  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/13/13 11:51 PM

while i am looking for a diagram showing the ground cable connections for an early mustang


here is a chevy diagram.. with proper ground connections..

80S Chevy Truck Battery Cables

i cobbled this together for you..

65 66 Mustang Ground Cables  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/14/13 12:06 AM

so... the BATTERY NEGATIVE has to be connected to BOTH the ENGINE and the BODY usually at the inner fenderwell or shock tower...

there needs to be a braided ground strap between the back of the cylinder head to the fire wall..


this allows all the ground side voltages to be the same.. no matter what the load placed upon the various systems...  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 83
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 01/23/13 04:01 PM

Thanks Wayne,
For all your infromation I will let you know.

the car is at the Shop and he is checking the Electric system, I told him to only Dienoise it that I need to know whats wrong before he replaces anything.

Thanks  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 01/23/13 07:01 PM

if you get in a hard spot...  just give a whistle..  i am only about 30 miles away.. it does not take me long in person to figure things out...

we could meet at a parking lot some place...  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 83
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 02/23/13 12:16 PM

Turns out the Coil was shorting out and burning the ignitor.
Now the vacuum advance is bad in the Distributor. So set up without vacuum advance  

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