MENU Subscribe to a Magazine
  • Sign in
  • Join

Subscribe to Print or Digital! Save up to 83%

Magazine Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
Magazine Mustang Monthly
Magazine 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
Magazine Modified Mustangs & Fords
  • Print Subscriptions
  • Digital Subscriptions
  • Gift Subscriptions
  • Subscriber Services
  • Back Issues
  • Personalized Cover
  • Subscribe to a Magazine
Item Posts    Sort Order

65 mustang wont restart after heating up

 
kane1457
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 03/10
Posted: 11/21/12 08:14 AM

I have a 1965 mustang coupe, 289, Holley Street Avenger carb, Pertronix piece in place of points, new fuel pump.  When i drive anywhere then come back out and try to start my car, it just turns over and over. I have no trouble when starting cold it fires right up.  I almost burned out the starter solenoid not paying attention at first.  Fuel is getting to the carb so I dont think it is a fuel problem.  
1965 Mustang coupe

Post Reply
waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 11/21/12 08:55 AM

got spark????  pull the coil wire out of the cap ....  position it about 1/2 inch from the engine block... don't hold it with your hand...  you won't like the result...  it will be a shocking result..  have a friend crank the engine with the ignition key... don't use a remote starter switch... as that changes slightly the way the car works..

do you have spark.... while cranking.. or just a SINGLE spark when you turn the key OFF

a single spark when you turn the key off usually indicates the ignition module has died... that the power transistor inside has failed and is shorted to ground..

at this point i do have to ask a question... look at the red and black wire from the ignitor unit.. the black wire goes to the COIL negative...  the red wire has a ring terminal on the positive terminal.. but.. did somebody take a short cut and just slip the ring terminal on without cutting the end off the positive wire that had a PUSH ON 90 degree connector...  both sides of the ignition coil terminals need NUTS to hold the ring terminals and the POSITIVE wire to the coil or there will NOT be a proper connection...

lets continue testing....    do you have a digital volt meter or a test light????

with a test light....   hook it up backwards to normal... put the CLIP on the positive terminal of the coil...    stick the probe against the engine block...  have a friend slowly turn the key ON..  have him crank the engine and then release the key back to the run position.. then slowly turn it off...

what you should SEE...  when the key is turned to the RUN position.. you should have a medium bright bulb shining from the test light...   when the key is turned to the cranking position.. the bulb should get full brightness .. when the key is released to the RUN position.. .it should return to medium brightness..

there really should be no areas once the key turns on that the bulb goes completely dark until you turn the key off...

this test can be done in minutes...


i am expecting you to not try to remember these.. print them ... follow my 30+ years of automotive repair experience...

... more to come...  try these tests... post what happened..  

Post Reply
waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 11/21/12 09:20 AM

how the factory system is wired...

when the key is in the ON position.. power comes out the IGN terminal on the back of the switch.. connects to a pink wire under the dash with a sleeve over it.. thats a resistor to drop the voltage to prevent the points from burning out while the engine is running...  from the resistor into the harness and up to the Positive side of the coil.... but somewhere in the harness there is a splice and another wire continues in the harness over to the starter solenoid I terminal.. .

when you turn your key to the CRANKING position... most ignition switches break the contact to the ignition...   but because the solenoid is engaged...   the contact disc is bridging the contacts sending current to the starter motor.. and the spring finger contact from the inside of the I terminal should be grabbing power from the contact disc...  so when the solenoid is engaged.. the coil should be getting full battery voltage...

when you release your key from the cranking position... the solenoid disengages and the ignition switch contacts make again... so you will be getting power through the resistor...


so.. run the test light test on the coil positive...  lets see what happens...

post results..   which parts we test next is determined by the results of this test...

parts that could be bad...  

the starter solenoid...  the I terminal might not be suppling power properly.. it does happen...

the Ignition switch...   the contacts inside burn away over the decades..

the ignition coil can fail when it gets HOT....  

the pertronix can fail when they get hot...

lastly... there is a GROUND wire... either a braided wire or a flexible wire from one of the old points hold down screws to the breaker plate hold down screw into the distributer housing... if this wire is missing.. you will have ISSUES.. the points and the pertronix both use this wire for a ground connection ....   the wire to the negative side of the coil is NOT a ground..  the ground strap makes the movable upper breaker plate a good ground with the lower breaker plate and the housing..   without it.. there may NOT be enough  of a ground connections to fill the ignition coil when the points are closed or the transistor is ON....  

Post Reply