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Item Posts    Sort Order

64 1/2 generator to alternator conversion.

 
oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/09/12 11:31 AM

I recently purchased a 64 1/2. The seller restored it and converted it to an alternator. Every time I start it up I get that classic screaching sound of a loose fan belt. After some investigation it appears that the alternator is not lined up properly. I also only has 1 yellow wire coming out the back and no voltage regulator, the seller gave me the old generator and the mounting bracket,but said it would have to be rebuilt. Here's my question. I would rather stay with the alternator, but I don't think it is installed properly. Does anyone have a diagram of the mounting bracket location? The engine is a 66 or 67 if that makes a difference.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 12/09/12 02:24 PM

first welcome to the forums..


one wire alternators only have ONE wire to the positive side... they ground through the mount to the negative battery...

can you stand beside the car... take images looking at the belt alignment.. so we can see what you are seeing..

you can post some images to one of the free image posting sites..   photobucket dot com or imageshack dot com..  there are links to link those images here so we can see them.

i think that i would carefully store the original parts.. as they are rather expensive to purchase if you or an future owner ever want to restore it back to original configuration..



i would like to know if the belt is tight enough...  is the alternator at the end of the adjustment slot.  if the alternator is at the max length... you will want a shorter belt...

belt numbering...

lets talk about belt numbering..

if you have a belt number 7480...   you would have a belt 7/16 wide.. 48.0 inches long
if you had a belt number 13480.. you would have an identical belt..
if you had a belt number 48013... you would have the same belt.

so... if you wanted a belt half an inch shorter than a 7480... you would ask if they had a 7475.
7475..   47.5 inches long..
you can take the belt off..  make a pen or chalk mark on the outside of the belt.. use a tape measure and work your way around the belt..  till you come back to the mark.. belts are measured by the length around the outside...

so... lets see what you have...

and alternators are generally far superior to generators...

you will i hope have added additional ground wires from the engine to the body... as the current flows from negative to positive..  

after you fix the squealing issue.. i have a test to verify the grounds..  

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oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/09/12 04:32 PM

I'll try to post the pictures tomorrow, I'll have to take another one since the one that showed the misalignment didn't come out.
the belt is about the right tension, he used two different adjusting brackets, I found another site that showed the same mod but they had to replace the water pump and the stationary bracket is on top with the adjusting bracket on bottom. That seems right, I had a fairlane with a 260 and I vaguely remember using a long bar between the alternator and the water pump to adjust the tension while tightning the screw.
dont have a belt number, when i looked at it at first it looked like it was indside out with the ribs on the outside. After further inspection the belt has ribs on both sides, don't remember that either. 45 years takes a toll on the memory.
I'm pretty sure that it's not properly grounded, I think the seller spent most of his time and money on the exterior. The car looks really nice but the body work has some amatuer flaws. The paint is excellent considering he painted it in his garage. He really did a good job on the look of the car but the mechanics need some help.
thanks for the reply,
i'll post the pictures tomorrow.  

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oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/09/12 04:49 PM

pictures are on photobucket.  

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cushman350
Enthusiast
Posts: 643
Joined: 07/06
Posted: 12/11/12 07:43 AM

Icon Quoteoleblue91:
pictures are on photobucket.

At Photobucket, find the picture and size you want, right click on it, left click on Properties at the very bottom of the menu.
You need the info given on the line titled URL address (3rd line from top). Copy the http..... Now on this MM posting page left click on the square "Insert Image" and paste the copied URL in the space called for and that should post your photo here.

8264554084 D9058bf8e9
8264565174 142C76521c  

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oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/11/12 04:06 PM

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s521/oleblue91/65%20mustang/IMAG18731.jpg[/img]  

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oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/11/12 04:10 PM

IMAG18731  

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oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/11/12 04:13 PM

Hope you can see that thanks for the info on how to post only took about 10 tries for my non-computer brain to figure it out.  Smile I can build them and fix them just can't operate them Computers that is.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 12/11/12 06:05 PM

well.. i see the problem.. you have a CHEVY alternator on your FORD..

but thats not a HUGE problem..

i have not tried that... i have used that model on a lot of other cars.. like toyotas and volvos..

can the alternator sit farther back on the bolt by shortening the spacer???   or can you hack saw the case slightly.. without cutting into the windings.. so the spacer fits farther forward...

did you drill the upper hole on the alternator to 7/16 or 1/2"...  that should have been drilled to 7/16" that might be why its twisted..

if you have overdrilled it so it rocks on the bolt... well you might need to find an alternator shop to purchase a new housing.. or find an electric motor shop that might have a pulley shaft shim..  but i think its going to be easier to replace the front housing.. .

i can supply you a place that might have them.. mail order.. in chino cal..

there is another way to do this... you will still need to get the alternator straightened..

run the alternator only on the front crank pulley...
you should be able to run just a short wide fan belt from the crank to the water pump pulley NO adjustment.. this takes a good friend at a parts store...  as you can loosen the fan blade.. allow the water pump pulley to slip down so you can slip a belt on.. then tighten the fan bolts while turning the fan/pump/pulley..  if you get it right.. the belt will have decent tension without  needing any tensioner.. usually the rear belt goes around the crank.. water pump and the power steering pump pulleys.. not the alternator pulley..

you could also get the alternator square...  and pick up a DOUBLE GROOVE pulley and install it on your alternator..  run the belt in the front groove..  there is a little room to add some spacer washers behind the alternator pulley.. the shaft size is 17mm..  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 12/11/12 06:08 PM

i have a friend who was in a similar situation.. but he did not understand or believe me on how to fit a belt on the crank and water pump pulley..  so he installed the power steering pump.. and ran the outlet back into the return inlet and just keeps it full of fluid...  this takes almost no power as the system has NO restriction... and builds no pressure..


one more thing.. there are alternator mounted one wire regulators for the 7078 ford alternators ..

they work just fine..  don't even cost a LOT...

Alternator F7078 Small  

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oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/12/12 01:35 PM

Thanks, I'll try changing the bracket to get it aligned.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 12/12/12 06:38 PM

its NOT the BRACKET

its THE ALTERNATOR and the SPACER that is causing the issue..

look at a 7127 alternator side view..

X17353 24529 Jpg Pagespeed Ic


below is the ford alternator 7078...

Gc1!~~ 35  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 12/12/12 06:42 PM

do you see any difference in the thru hole???

the threaded side is also a different thickness.. if your bolt comes through from the back...

i like to use 7145 cases when replacing ford alternators..  as the center line of the drilled hole is farther away from the case slightly.. giving more room..

the external  one wire voltage regulator for the ford 7078 alternator is under 30 bucks as i recall


as far as i know.. a CHEVY alternator bracket will NOT fit a ford..  so you are going to be stuck with a ford bracket and a chevy alternator.. and its far easier to modify the alternator or the spacer than to modify the mustang bracket..

do it the EASY way... NOT the hard way that is not EASILY REVERSED... alternators are EASIER To get than FORD brackets...  

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oleblue91
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/12
Posted: 12/12/12 08:04 PM

Yea I see what you mean, I'll look for a new alternator online, any suggestions? The alternator I have already has the one wire kit, can I use it on the new alternator or do I have to buy another one.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 12/12/12 09:40 PM

ok.... log in....   look at the link just to the left of where you log out at..  messages..

there is a message waiting for you...
Laugh  

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