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Headers for Ford Crate Engine 363

 
rdt1957
New User
Posts: 7
Joined: 08/10
Posted: 02/26/13 07:54 PM

I bought a Ford Crate engine through CJPONY: 363 CUBIC INCH 500 HP BOSS CRATE ENGINE FRONT SUMP M-6007-Z363FT. It has Cylinder Heads Ford Racing Aluminum "Z" Cylinder Heads M-6049-Z304DA (ex. port raised .625"). They also sold me headers (Hooker 6111HKR). The headers don't seem to fit unless I am doing something wrong. Their customer support is not replying to my emails. Does anyone know of any headers that will fit my '65 FB with the engine noted above. I have both the 65 and 66 motor mounts. Thx  

Post Reply
waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 02/26/13 11:09 PM

are the dart heads the same raised exhaust port as the ford heads??


P/N 6111HKR (Painted) & 6111-1HKR (Ceramic Coated)
SUPER COMPETITION FULL LENGTH CAR HEADERS
1964-70 Ford Mustang / Mercury Cougar (260-302W)


NOTE:  Will not fit with C-6 automatic transmissions.
NOTE:   Will fit Dart Windsor head.

Thank you for making HOOKER HEADERS your choice in a high-performance exhaust system.  Extensive dyno/track testing has enabled HOOKER to
offer the most advanced design in headers for you application.  Due to the restricted room available in the engine compartment, your headers may be
close to some body and chassis components.  This condition is normal.  The installation, while not complex, will take a certain amount of time.  However,
the additional horsepower and improved performance will more than justify your efforts.  Proper installation and maintenance will ensure long life and
maximum performance from your HOOKER HEADERS.

WARNING! Breaking in an engine with ceramic-coated headers WILL result in damage to the coating and will VOID all warranties.  Ceramic-
coated headers require several heat cycles to fully cure before they will withstand extreme heat. HOOKER recommends using a
cast-iron exhaust manifold or an old header to break in new engines to avoid coating damage.

BEFORE STARTING
Your vehicle must be raised a minimum of 36 inches. A floor hoist is ideal.  If no hoist is available, we strongly urge the use of axle stands as a safety
measure.  CAUTION!  YOUR CAR SHOULD NOT BE SUPPORTED ON A BUMPER JACK.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE – PLEASE READ CAREFULLY

LEFT SIDE:
1. Disconnect the battery cable to prevent damage to the electrical systems.
2. Unbolt the stock headpipes from exhaust manifolds and push aside.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold, clutch linkage, transmission locking device (if equipped), power steering ram from frame, and spark plugs.
4. 64-65 Mustangs only – Remove the center motor mount bolt and jack engine up about 2 inches.  Be sure to place a board between the pan and
jack.
5. Starting from below, work the header up through the chassis into position (lower motor and replace bolt (64-65 only).
NOTE:   Power steering equipped cars with hoses mounted alongside the motor mount will have to be rerouted down in front of the motor mount.  Use
the hose bracket from above and mount to the lower control arm bracket.
6. Place the gasket into position and start all bolts (most restricted first).
7. Work the clutch linkage through the header into position.
8. Tighten all bolts (most restricted first).
9. Cars equipped with power steering require Hooker Headers power steering bracket (10961HKR).
NOTE:  Automatic transmission cars equipped with locking device require modification to linkage (See Figure A).
10. Replace the spark plugs.

RIGHT SIDE:
1. Remove the spark plugs and exhaust manifold.
2. 64-65 Mustangs only – Remove the center motor mount bolt and jack engine up about 2 inches.  Be sure to place a board between the pan and
jack.
3. Starting from below, work the header up through the chassis into position (lower motor and replace bolt (64-65 only).
4. Place the gasket into position and start all bolts.
5. Tighten all bolts evenly (most restricted first).
6. To connect collectors to headpipes, cut to the correct length and weld to the reducers.
7. Connect the battery, start the engine, and check for leaks.  Be sure that all brake lines, fuel lines, and electrical wires have sufficient clearance.  
Reroute, as necessary.
8. When finished with the installation, give your vehicle a test drive checking carefully for any new noises.  After several days of driving, re-tighten all
the bolts.

Any questions?  Please contact Technical Service: 1-866-GOHOLLEY or 270-781-9741.  For online help,  

Post Reply
cushman350
Enthusiast
Posts: 648
Joined: 07/06
Posted: 03/03/13 11:08 AM

Headers. I have owned my 1966 GT350 since apr.1969 and over the years replaced many headers, aftermarket tri-ys, many brands, and not one fit without tweaking here and there. Even the Hooker Ceramic had to be clearanced, cyl. 5 tube against the inner fenderweld. This is the world we live in.  

Post Reply
mohsinj6776
New User
Posts: 1
Joined: 08/13
Posted: 08/13/13 02:31 AM

{{{{{{{ This post is so great and nice }}}}}}}}

Starting from below, work the header up through the chassis into position (lower motor and replace bolt (64-65 only).
NOTE:   Power steering equipped cars with hoses mounted alongside the motor mount will have to be rerouted down in front of the motor mount.  Use
the hose bracket from above and mount to the lower control arm bracket.
Place the gasket into position and start all bolts (most restricted first).
Work the clutch linkage through the header into position.

Read more: http://forums.mustangmonthly.com/70/9371638/mustang-restoration/headers-for-ford-crate-engine-363/#ixzz2btJRtd21  
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