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Pitman arm puller

 
bigdiehl
New User
Posts: 26
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 02/26/13 09:19 AM

I have a 1967 Mustang with a 1969 302.  I am trying to remove my power steering control valve to re-build it.  To do so, I have to remove the ball stud from the Pitman Arm.  I have never had occassion to use a Pitman Arm puller, and am not sure about the procedure.  There is not alot of room to work under the car.  I don't want to damage anything by using a pickle fork.  I just want to do it right.  Any guidance would be appreciated.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 02/26/13 11:38 AM

most kits come with a new ball stud...



there was a great article on building these in the tech section but somehow it got edited down to a single paragraph..

you pull the cotter pin from the end of the valve and unscrew the threaded plug to allow the control valve to drop off the ball as the seat inserts move apart...

once you get the control valve off the ball stud.. you can if you have a pitman arm puller and the proper usually 1 5/16" socket remove the pitman arm nut .. then you can remove the pitman arm to allow you to pound the ball stud out of the top of the arm...

there are small width pickle forks that might also be able to wedge it out..  

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bigdiehl
New User
Posts: 26
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 02/26/13 01:40 PM

Thanks for the reply, *** what you are saying is very different from the instructions that came with the rebuild kit and the shop manual.  There is no cotter pin on the end of the valve that I see, or a threaded "plug"?

The instructions say to remove the hoses, which I did, loosen the clamp and pull out the roll pin that locates the valve on the centerlink, and separate the ball stud from the pitman arm with a puller and finally unscrew the valve assembly from the centerlink.

My rebuild kit comes with a new ball stud.  I just need to know how to use the pitman arm puller.  Do I just attach it and turn the bolt with a rachet until the pitman arm comes off the stud or do I have to hit something with a hammer?

I wish that article was available too.  I've tried to read it but like you said, it is only a useless paragraph.  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 02/26/13 03:10 PM

have you checked the AZ repair site..


how about an assembly video on youtube...

please pass the grey poupon..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zg17Noy82Pg

there must be several slightly different designs on fords...

or i have gone completely NUTs.. and i know i have....  

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bigdiehl
New User
Posts: 26
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 02/27/13 08:41 AM

Wayne,

Thanks for the video.  It is a help, although in a different way.  I now see what you were referring to in your previous email.  You are not nuts, but one difference for the 67 Mustang is that the ball stud sleeve is screwed on the centerlink instead of being an integral part of it like the 65 in the video.  

I appreciate the video, but I'm not sure I want to take the approach of separating the valve from the sleeve while on the car.  Can you or somebody describe how to properly use a pitman arm puller to separate the arm from the ball stud?  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 02/27/13 10:27 AM

perhaps the upper left puller in this set..

Image 16388


or figure out the nut size on the ball stud..  pick up either a coupling nut or perhaps thread some together on a bolt and weld them .. so you have something taller than one nut and the ability to beat on it..  either from the bottom.. or down from the top with a big rod and a hammer...

i would hate to see any damage to the steering box adjustment from hammering on the pitman arm..

you could also pull the pitman arm with the control valve attached.. and beat the ball stud out then..

in the few i have done.. i have just used a hammer.. as i have new studs to go in..

using a pickle fork will destroy the grease seal and the shield.. but those come new also in the kit..

you might want to pressure wash the control valve and steering linkage first.. so its clean to work on.. makes it much easier..

a huge tip...   if the tube nuts on the lines are way tight when you try to loosen them...

SNUG them TIGHTER.. just enough to break the nut loose from the grip of the threads.. then it will loosen..  if your flair nut wrench is on the LOOSE side... adjust it with a hammer.. it can be tightened up slightly without destroying it..

you might find a set of these crowfoot tubing wrenches handy also..  along with some ball end extensions..

Image 13727

some harbor freight stores may have a set of these left in stock also...

 

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54packman
Enthusiast
Posts: 343
Joined: 11/09
Posted: 02/27/13 11:21 AM

i find the easiest way of getting ball joints and tie rods ends apart, without using a pickle fork is to remove the nut, and then get a (BFH) big f'en hammer and strike where the ball joint or tie rod goes through, not the ball joint or tie rod. I work on a lot of front wheel drive cars, and its about the only way u can get the lower ball joint apart without destroying the rubber boots, witch a pickle fork will do.  

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bigdiehl
New User
Posts: 26
Joined: 03/12
Posted: 02/27/13 11:26 AM

Thanks Wayne.  I'm tempted now to remove the Pitman Arm from the steering box instead and leave the arm attached to the valve.  If I do this, how will I know how to re-position the arm to attach it back to the steering box?  The hole in the arm has teeth in it that mesh with the steering gear, but I don't see how I can make sure it goes back on in the same exact orientation that it comes off.  Maybe clean it off real well and mark it before removing?  

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waynep71222
Enthusiast
Posts: 455
Joined: 04/12
Posted: 02/27/13 02:39 PM

there are MISSING splines on the pitman shaft and in the pitman arm... so it will only go on 4 ways...  90 degrees apart usually sometimes only 2 ways... sometimes only ONE way...


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it will be an AHHA!!! moment..

if the pitman arm does not come down when you tighten the puller bolt..

whack the end of the puller bolt with a BFH..  with the tension tight..  it may pop loose..

once in a great while.. somebody has installed them to tight that they are wedged on the tapered splines so far..   i got tired of bending them on one car.. and made my own out of some 6" bar stock and a 3/4" allen cap screw... but at that point i had access to a vertical mill.  

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