MENU Subscribe to a Magazine
  • Sign in
  • Join

Subscribe to Print or Digital! Save up to 83%

Magazine Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
Magazine Mustang Monthly
Magazine 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
Magazine Modified Mustangs & Fords
  • Print Subscriptions
  • Digital Subscriptions
  • Gift Subscriptions
  • Subscriber Services
  • Back Issues
  • Personalized Cover
  • Subscribe to a Magazine
12 Last
Item Posts    Sort Order

My 64 1/2 will not start

 
64ted
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 04/29/13 04:51 PM

I have no idea why but it will not start. One day it was fine the next nothing. Anyone have any ideas I checked everything and I just don't understand why....nothing I get nothing.  

Post Reply
MustangMan
Moderator
Posts: 259
Joined: 08/11
Posted: 04/30/13 07:27 AM

Alright, let's try to get more details.

Is this a CRANK, no start or is it a NO CRANK, no start? Meaning, when you turn the ignition switch to "START" does the starter engage and turn the engine over or do you get no sound/no engagement at all?

Do you have power? Try the headlights, do they come on? Do you have key switched power? Turn the ignition switch to "RUN" and try a key switched accessory like the wipers, turn signals, or radio. Do any of them work?

Is it an automatic transmission? If so, make sure the shifter is in PARK or NEUTRAL. If so, try wiggling the shifter a bit while turning the key to "START", as you may have a misaligned or loose neutral safety switch.

Give us more details. What size engine, auto or manual trans, any modifications to the car? Stock wiring? Still a generator or converted to alternator?

HTH...
Mark
.  
Mark Houlahan
Brand Manager
Mustang Monthly Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600 5-speed
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4 Auto
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 306/AOD
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto
2005 F-150 4x2 4.2L V-6/4R70W Auto

Post Reply
64ted
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 04/30/13 03:14 PM

Ok thanks for the help......
No power at all and the battery is new, all stock wires nothing added, generater inline straight 6 200. I turn the key and not even a sound, which I don't understand when the day before everything was fine.

I will try moving like you said the shifter while turning the key. then I will get back to you.  

Post Reply
64ted
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 04/30/13 03:40 PM

auto or manual trans, and no modifications

I tryed the shifter while turning the key nothing......no lights no horn no radio no nothing.............  

Post Reply
64ted
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 04/30/13 03:41 PM

sorry auto trans  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/30/13 09:39 PM

lets start with the positive side..

got a test light...

test from negative battery post to positive battery post..  should have a light

test from the negative battery post to the stud where the positive cable connects to the starter relay... shown below where the red wire from the alternator and the yellow wire that goes into the body go...  you should have power there.. yes or no..


then check from the negative battery  post to the yellow wire ring terminal.. power yes or no??? yes is good..

follow that yellow wire down several inches .. there is a soft section called a fusible link.. do you have power on both sides of the fusible link????

did somebody hook up the battery backwards or jump start it even for a second backwards. as that on a good day will just blow the fusible link.. if you have blown it.. please post and await instructions.. there is more to test..

negative battery post to the big red wire on the back of the alternator.. yes or no..   yes it good..

here is a few things i cobbled together... as i don't have a lot of extra parts laying around.. i pasted this up ..

Mustang Starting System5  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/30/13 09:45 PM

next .. dig out your jumper cables...    

this is different.. please try this carefully... as i direct...

you have 2 cables..

red and black...

at one end of the pair.. connect both RED and BLACK to the NEGATIVE battery terminal...  

the other end.. connect one to a good ground on the engine block.. the other to one of the bolts that hold the shock tower top on....

you are NOT connecting anywhere to the positive battery..

see if the headlights come on now..

see if the starter cranks the engine now..

if it does..

and with the jumper cables removed.. it does not.. then you have an issue on the negative side...

since electrons flow from negative to positive .. if you loose a ground connection..  you won't have enough electrons to make the components work properly...


65 66 Mustang Ground Cables  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 04/30/13 09:50 PM

i have seen these as simple as dirty connections at the starter relay ..

dirty connections at the battery terminals..

blown fusible link...

bad connections at the bulk head connector..

bad connection at the ignition switch.. but your headlights don't work.. so i am thinking closer to the battery... or starter solenoid...

i usually take the connections off on the side with all the wires and wire brush both sides of the terminals.. and the studs.. the faces of the nuts and reassemble..  

Post Reply
64ted
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/01/13 03:15 PM

Wow ok so i have some things to do tonight I will let you know what happens. All good stuff and Thanks for all your help......got to get to work, thanks again  

Post Reply
jlg2002
Guru
Posts: 1410
Joined: 03/08
Posted: 05/03/13 12:58 PM

I would suspect your "new" battery is dead. no lights=no battery. BTW- the last time I looked at a 65 wiring diagram there was no fuse link.

IMO:Take your battery back to where you bought it and have it checked or get the test light out and check it for voltage.  

Post Reply
64ted
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/03/13 04:36 PM

Ok so I did the jumper cable hook up and yes the lights came on but thats it the starter did not turn.  I looked at all the wires and they are all good and grounded well.

I checked the battery with my tester and I am getting 12.30.

This is really nuts driving me crazy  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 05/04/13 07:12 AM

take wire connections apart and clean...

you have a connection issue..

say.. are you using those painted RED and BLACK battery cable ends.. if so.. take the cable clamps off and sand or wire brush the paint off the areas where the 2 small bolts hold the plate down..



these have caused me a lot of time in sanding and wire brushing across under the clamp plates to get good contact...

got pictures of your under hood area...

lets see more tests...

positive battery post to the alternator output terminal... while cranking..  you should not get over 1 volt.. while attempting to crank..

negative battery post to the body.. with the headlights on..

is your starter relay tightly mounted to the inner fender or are the bolts holes stripped..

if they are.. 2 ways to fix it..  some solid strand copper wire.. an inch stripped. and cut off.  bent in a tight U shape..  slipped thru the hole in the inner fender...  the solenoid placed in front of it and the self tapping bolts installed.. the copper wire reduces the bolt hole so the threads on the bolt can get a grip...

second way ... get some 1/4-20 x 1/2" or 3/4 long bolts..  i have even taken them from the used battery cables like i posted above..  stuck the bolt thru from the tire side of the inner fender..  placed the solenoid on and then the nut.. but i like a different way that involves 4 nuts..

bolt | inner fender, | nut.. solenoid bracket nut...

this allows you to install the bolt from the tire side.. put a nut on and tighten it.. so it stays in position..  then slide the solenoid on top of the first nut.. install the second nut to hold the solenoid in place.. this makes it really easy..  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 05/04/13 07:22 AM

oh... also bring the charge up on your battery... 10 amps for an hour should do it..

12.30 volts is about HALF a CHARGE..



don't overcharge it..   when the amp meter needle reading starts dropping on the battery charger.. the battery is full or close to being fully charged..

getting the headlights to work with the jumper cables hooked up from the negative post to the engine block sure shows a bad battery connection..  

Post Reply
64ted
New User
Posts: 11
Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/06/13 05:39 PM

Ok I have cleaned all connections, they are tight as well as the battery connections are clean and tight. My lights now work but engine or starter will not make a sound.....nothing nothing nothing. I took the battery to the place I got it to get checked.......ya it's good and has a full charge on it now, but still nothing not a sound from the engine or starter.  Confused  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 05/06/13 09:15 PM

can you print the diagram i tossed together with the yellow battery in the upper left corner???


you could have several issues...

lets test the cranking system first... see the starter relay...

see where the positive battery cable attaches to the starter relay.. along with a wire to the alternator and the yellow wire is... thats battery hot.. and if you did not have that properly assembled you  would not have headlights or any lights...

see the S where the red and blue wire hooks up...     with the transmission in park.. or if its a stick shift.. in neutral..   take a pair of pliers ... insulated handles.. jump the left stud to the S Stud and the solenoid should click and engage the starter....  if that makes the motor spin...

that proves the starter and solenoid are working...

which color wire is on the push on terminals

left from the top.. is ***

right from the top is I...  

Post Reply
12 Last