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starting problem on 66 mustang with a 289

New User
Posts: 5
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 06/25/13 02:58 PM

I was wonderinng if anyone else had this problem and has a solution. I have a 66 fastback with a 289 4 speed and after I go for a drive and its warmed up and I turn the car off and then go to start it a few minutes later it cranks over but won't start. I put new wires, cap,router,plugs,edelbrock 500 cfm 4b carb and it has electonic egnition. Was running great ,but just started to have this problem.  

Post Reply
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 06/25/13 03:36 PM

do you own a TIMING LIGHT????  i would like you to use it as a diagnostic tool in a different fashion..

when you get it hot and it fails to start. but it does crank over...   open the hood.. clip the timing light to the coil wire.. and the clamps to the positive and negative terminals..  while somebody aims the timing at YOU, sitting in the drivers seal and they pull the trigger..  you crank the engine.. are you getting a flashing..  from the timing light.. you should be..

if you get no flashing light..  you might want to change the ignition coil.. the are fairly cheep...  there has been a bunch of them going bad when heated..

original ford coils were not designed for the amperage that electronic ignitions put thru them on the primary side.

what kind of electronic ignition is installed????

who wired it in...

do you own a test light or a digital volt meter.. a test light will usually work..

let test the 12 volt positive side of the ignition...

hook the test clip to the positive coil terminal... shove the test lead probe into something on the engine block...

slowly turn the key to the ON position..     does the test light come on.. mid brightness???? it should

turn the key to the cranking position...  does the test light come on bright.. indicating that the wire from the I terminal on the starter rellay is working properly.. bypassing the resistance wire thats in the circuit under the dashboard..    what.. its red  or pink.. a single wire with bullet connectors on each end... and a black woven sleeve over it..   starts about 6 inches from the back of the ignition switch and ends about 6 inches from the bulk head connector ..

when you release the key from the cranking position.. does the light continue to stay on????


key on.. medium bright test light to the positive side of the coil.

key cranking..   bright test light to the positive side of the ignition systtem

key released from cranking.. medium bright test light

if it does not work this way..

you could have either an ignition switch issue.. or a starter relay issue over on the firewall...

lastly.. until you reply..    if you depress the throttle slightly .. no more than about half way while cranking. does it start.???

you could have rust or sediment in the fuel system holding the needle and seats open in the carb and flooding the engine...

more info please...  

Post Reply
Posts: 342
Joined: 11/09
Posted: 06/26/13 07:22 AM

Is it hard starting, if you shut it off for 5 min or more? will it restart if you shut it off, then try a restart after 30 sec or so? you could be missing the heat sheild, and insulator plate under the carb, causing vapour lock, when the under hood temp goes up, have Also seen bad ignition coils, and condensiors do the same thing too, do you have an electric fuel pump installed, or still mechanical?  

Post Reply
Posts: 259
Joined: 08/11
Posted: 06/27/13 07:17 AM

You say it turns over...

However, how does it turn over? Does it crank at normal speeds or does it labor to turn over (crank slowly)...

If it cranks at normal speed I'm with Packman on fuel loss or loss of ignition when hot. Take the air cleaner off and give the pedal linkage a few pulls. Do you get a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump shot? If not you might be boiling the gas out and need an insulator between the intake and carb.

If you have plenty of fuel then you might not be getting spark when hot. Try a wet rag on the coil to cool it ot simply plug in a spare coil and see if it starts.

Mark Houlahan
Brand Manager
Mustang Monthly Magazine

1965 FFR Roadster 427W/TKO-600 5-speed
1966 Mustang 289-4V/C4 Auto
1968 Mustang 4.6L Three-Valve/5R55S Auto
1990 Mustang 306/AOD
2002 Explorer Sport Trac 4.0L V-6/5R55 Auto
2005 F-150 4x2 4.2L V-6/4R70W Auto

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New User
Posts: 5
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 06/27/13 05:11 PM

Hey Guys thanks for your imfo and I'm slowly going through the different steps in your replies. I've only had the car for 2 months and changed all the tune up parts because it needed to.I will let you know what my findings are.Thanks for your help and all imformation is very much appreciated.  

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New User
Posts: 5
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 07/05/13 03:02 PM

To everyone thanks again  problem solved,alternator,voltage regulator and some bad wiring. running great now.  

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New User
Posts: 5
Joined: 06/13
Posted: 07/05/13 03:03 PM

To everyone thanks again  problem solved,alternator,voltage regulator and some bad wiring. running great now.  

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