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Item Posts    Sort Order

Centerlink vs Starter

 
CJ3125
New User
Posts: 6
Joined: 06/09
Posted: 08/13/13 12:25 PM

I didn't know if I should post this in suspension or drivetrain but here goes...
 The passenger side inner tie rod and center link are constantly hitting my starter motor.  I have to replace a starter motor every 3-6 months, and now the bell housing because it was it so hard the bottom bolt hole is broken.  
 I am using a stock suspension with grab a track 720s and have the upgraded motor mounts. The only thing I can figure is the bell housing or  idler arm are incorrect for my car.

Please help  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 08/13/13 06:29 PM

what kind of upgraded motor mounts do you have..

is it something that lowers the engine to change the center of gravity for better cornering.

got pictures???

is your idler arm worn and allowing vertical motion at the center drag link???

you should not get more than 1/4" of vertical movement  i actually like ZERO vertical movement at the end of the idler arm..

with the drivers side tire on the ground.. passenger side slightly raised with a floor jack under the lower control arm..

grab the tire at 9 and 3 o clock.. push and pull back and forth..  while somebody looks at the idler arm.. neither the idler arm or the drag link should move up and down...  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 08/13/13 06:31 PM

oh... and Please. describe your car.. i looked thru some of your previous posts..

and did not see.. year.. make .. model.. power steering or not..  engine type.. six, small block or big block..

there are a LOT of differences between models..

sometimes 3 different sets of parts depending on 200, 289, 390

there are major differences between power steering and NON power steering cars..

can you measure the length of the pitman arm and the idler arm...

see if they are the same. CENTER TO CENTER length.. or very close...

post numbers.. post pictures...  post model data..  

Post Reply
CJ3125
New User
Posts: 6
Joined: 06/09
Posted: 08/15/13 11:04 PM

Sorry car details would help...
 It is a 1965 A code coupe,it was manufactured in march of 65 but has the post november 1 enginge mounts, I do not know if they are a dealer, or home mechanic refit.  
 The bellhousing and engine came out of a 66 Falcon Wagon... the transmission we got with it was a dual range 3speed, and we later learned the block was a 302 that had a 289 crank and rods.
 It is a bare bones care no AC or Power steering, the only thing the dealership splurged on was a 4 speed.  I have since then upgraded to a first generation T5, that will be replaced durring this restoration(its second)
 In the past 2 years I have replaced the upper control arms twice(dern pot holes) the lower ones once and the idler arm bushing once. In addition to all 4 tie rods have been replaced twice now in the 22 years I have owned the car.  
 Your comment about the idler arm busing raises a question... mine is in the top posistion closest to the frame with the bushing exposed below the arm, is that correct?

Thanks CJ  

Post Reply
waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 08/16/13 08:17 AM

seems there are several different idler arms ..  

i was looking around.. there are some that have a slight upward angle of the arm..

some have a significant upward angle of the arm..

and seems that some replacements have had the idler arm bushing pressed in backwards that raises the idler arm end incorrectly..

i wonder if there is an article in the one of the mustang magazines here on this issue.. as there is some confusion..

got pictures???

is your center drag link level.. or is it higher on the passenger side???

it should be level....  

Post Reply
cushman350
Enthusiast
Posts: 643
Joined: 07/06
Posted: 08/16/13 11:12 AM

MOOG SUSPENSION PARTS used to sell an kit for idler arms that replaced the rubber with a greaseable bearing and washers that almost totally eliminates idler arm wiggle. Been on my car since 1978 and really took slack out.  

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