MENU Subscribe to a Magazine
  • Sign in
  • Join

Subscribe to Print or Digital! Save up to 83%

Magazine Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords
Magazine Mustang Monthly
Magazine 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords
Magazine Modified Mustangs & Fords
  • Print Subscriptions
  • Digital Subscriptions
  • Gift Subscriptions
  • Subscriber Services
  • Back Issues
  • Personalized Cover
  • Subscribe to a Magazine
12 Last
Item Posts    Sort Order

289 fan clutch

 
elgordito55
New User
Posts: 32
Joined: 09/12
Posted: 12/05/13 08:33 AM

When I purchased my 65 with a 289 regular stock engine, it came with a fan clutch-I have looked at similar engines and some don't have it. What is the difference in using or not using a fan clutch?  I am taking a look at this due to overheating issues. By the way, I installed a new fan clutch a while back.  

Post Reply
shyrgfuh3
New User
Posts: 24
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/05/13 11:42 AM

double post  

Post Reply
shyrgfuh3
New User
Posts: 24
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/05/13 11:43 AM

ok

non ac cars had a 4 blade fixed fan and no shroud. these cars overheated from the factory in high temps.

ac cars had a 6 blade fan mounted on a clutch. the clutch is basically a gas saving item. it also reduces fan noise at lower rpm.

if you are overheating you need to answer many questions to get the best advice.

do you have a fan shroud?

is there an aFTERMARKET TRANS COOLER DIRECTLY IN FRONT OF IT?

how long has it been overheating?

how hot is it in traffic?

how hot on the fwy?

does the temp reduce at all once moving?

how many rows deep is your rad?

how thick is your rad core only, 1 3/4", 2", 2 1/4" etc.

what rating is your thermostat?

do you have ac?

do you use it?

how hot is outdoor temp when it runs hot?

how long does it take to get hot, 5 minutes, 15 minutes etc?

what is your compression ratio?

how far is engine bored out?

what size is engine?



TESTS

1. remove rad cap when cold

look at top of tubes for rust or being plugged. if you see any prob it needs to be rodded out but that might not completely fix your prob.

2. REC ENGINE WHILE LOOKING AT LOWER RAD HOSE, IF it gets sucked closed at all it is bad, buy one with a spring in it.






is wuestionbs  

Post Reply
wayne712222
User
Posts: 105
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 12/05/13 01:24 PM

i totally agree..

fan clutches only work well with a 192F thermostat..   will sometimes work with a 180 thermostat..   why.. because they are designed to turn on between 180f and 190F..  this is the bymetallic spring diverting the silicone oil inside between the fixed disc and the disc attached to the input shaft on it..  so that more torque is applied when the thermostat has opened and exchanged the cooler/cooled coolant in the radiator for the hot coolant in the engine circulating system..  the air flow thru the radiator is heated by the hot coolant and the bymetallic spring changes the wind on the valve in the center to control the on and off of the fan clutch..

with a 160F thermostat.. the fan clutch does not turn on.. till the coolant has swapped several times without being properly cooled and you have a runaway cooling system...


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

you can .. also.. with a 25 or 35 buck infrared temp gun.. monitor the cooling system as the engine warms up and the coolant swaps circulates thru the engine and then into the radiator..

if you can get at your radiator..  you can run the temp gun across the tubes.. looking for cool tubes.. this indicates that they are blocked or clogged .. cooler than the other tubes because of lack of flow..

you can also see if when the thermostat opens.. and the hot coolant circulates into the radiator.. that the fan clutch should engage and spin faster...

this usually takes the engine at slightly increased idle speed..  sometimes not..  

Post Reply
elgordito55
New User
Posts: 32
Joined: 09/12
Posted: 12/09/13 06:25 PM

Thank you guys for the responses- Actually, the engine is stock and hasn't been modified at all--the a/c does not work- It doesn't have a transmission oil cooler in front-it does have a fan shroud with a fan clutch and a 180 thermostat-it used to have a stock 2 row radiator and in traffic it would overheat way over the normal range. Since my post I replaced the radiator with a 3 core and installed a coolant recovery tank. I am still doing other mechanical repairs to the front suspension and had not driven it out yet, but at idle the temperature is a little bit over normal. I was hoping that with the 3 core radiator the temperature might remain at least somewhat below normal- As soon as I finish the front suspension rebuild, I'll take it out for a regular drive to see how the temperarure holds up at highways speeds.  

Post Reply
shyrgfuh3
New User
Posts: 24
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/10/13 01:57 PM

hi, ok  

Post Reply
shyrgfuh3
New User
Posts: 24
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/10/13 01:59 PM

hi, ok

of your rad is not a us made one the tubes are likely very small which in effect make it the same capacity as your other one but with possibly just a bit more cooling area in which case you need to sell it on ebay and buy a 3 row high efficiency one from coolcraft.com.

if you still have the ac condenser in front of the rad it will run cooler if you remove it.

if you reduce your coolant ratio from 50:1 to 20% anti freeze, 1 bottle of water wetter then plain water it will run cooler and cool faster and still not freeze until around 14 degrees f above 0.

i would also run a 192 - 195 stant brand premium thermostat.  

Post Reply
elgordito55
New User
Posts: 32
Joined: 09/12
Posted: 12/10/13 11:32 PM

thanks for the information--since the a/c does not work and do not plan to get it going would it be better if I also eliminate the fan clutch?  

Post Reply
shyrgfuh3
New User
Posts: 24
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/12/13 03:08 PM

Icon Quoteelgordito55:
thanks for the information--since the a/c does not work and do not plan to get it going would it be better if I also eliminate the fan clutch?

No, if it continues to run hot refer to my previous message.  

Post Reply
dond1965
New User
Posts: 13
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/24/13 10:39 PM

unless its important to you that the car be 100% stock, do yourself a big favor and convert to an electric cooling fan system!!  

Post Reply
elgordito55
New User
Posts: 32
Joined: 09/12
Posted: 12/26/13 11:31 AM

thanks!  

Post Reply
elgordito55
New User
Posts: 32
Joined: 09/12
Posted: 12/26/13 11:31 AM

thanks!  

Post Reply
dond1965
New User
Posts: 13
Joined: 11/13
Posted: 12/26/13 03:11 PM

my pleasure gooday, happy holidays  

Post Reply
shyrgfuh70
New User
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/13
Posted: 12/27/13 02:13 PM

if you use an electric fan you still need a shroud. you also need a fan that draws at least 35 amps. do not buy one by the cfm rating because those are lies for the most part. very few electrics flow as much cfm as a regular fan. a good electric fan is at least 160.00.  

Post Reply
elgordito55
New User
Posts: 32
Joined: 09/12
Posted: 12/28/13 10:29 AM

Thanks--the electric fan is an excellent idea! The car does have a shroud although I always thought 65 mustang shrouds are inadequate since they are too narrow and and are designed more for blade protection---

160.00 you mean $160 ?  

Post Reply
12 Last