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Coolant leak

 
JSchnittke
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/19/14 12:42 PM

Hi,
I have a 2006 v6 mustang pony package with low millage it's been leaking coolant
at first intermittently from the degas/over flow tank cap. I replaced with new cap
same problem. I then changed out the tank for an aluminum moroso tank and replaced the rad with a mishimoto about eight months ago now it doesn't leak from the cap
but now leaks from the new rad... Too much pressure, blew out the rad?
The temp gauge in the car is always normal and never showed that it was overheating and my heater works. No check engine light. I've brought it to my Ford dealership six times over the last year and a half and they can't find the problem.
The car was still under the extended service plan when I first went to them with this problem but is now finished. Can anyone help?
I don't know what to do anymore, getting desperate.
Thanks, John  

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wayne712222
User
Posts: 127
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 01/19/14 02:01 PM

is the radiator replaced now??? so the cooling system is pressure tight???


take some sandwich wrap and a rubber band .. remove the radiator cap..  place sandwich wrap over the filler neck.  push a depression into the plastic film.. use the rubber band to seal it to the filler neck...

if there is an overflow tube.. pinch it off..

with a cold motor.. crank or start the engine for 15 seconds.

then examine the depression in the sandwich wrap. if its inflated. you have a blown head gasket or a crack in the combustion chamber..


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

i have an additional test.. very much like a cylinder leak down test.. in fact it is a cylinder leak down test.. but instead of using a leak down tester.  i use a compression tester hose with the valve core removed..  with proper quick connects to hook this compression tester hose directly to shop air..  

with this set up.. you get significant pressure and volume in the cylinder and by setting each piston to TDC on the compression stroke..

when you charge the cylinder with air.. if the piston is not perfectly at TDC the engine will spin in either direction..  it will show bubbles at the tank or inflate your sandwich wrap if there is a leak..


just examining the spark plugs for signs of coolant is the best idea..

on an overhead cam V6 or overhead cam V8... i worry that if the engine spins backwards .. the chains are pulling in the reverse direction and it might bottom out the tensioner arm and throw off the cam timing ruining your day..


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~  

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JSchnittke
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/19/14 02:15 PM

I'm still waiting on the replacement Rad...
Thanks Wayne. I'm still shocked that this could have happened
with only around 5,000 miles on the car... it only has about
15,000 miles on it now...
what can cause a head gasket to go with such low mileage?  

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JSchnittke
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/19/14 02:33 PM

Also, the oil looks normal and not milky, no white smoke from tailpipe...
I'm not very mechanically inclined and was hoping that Ford would have done the appropriate tests to find the problem, guess not...
They told me they let the car run for an hour and everything was good.
They couldn't recreate the leak. the tech took it home and still found nothing.
As I mentioned it was intermittent. Could this be a  computer issue?
Why would it leak like a fountain and then be fine for a week or two and then leak
again after a short drive...?  

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wayne712222
User
Posts: 127
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 01/19/14 02:37 PM

absolutely...

there are a bunch of reasons for it to happen..

i have found a lot of the earlier pushrod V6 motors have a bleeder bolt on a pipe behind the thermostat housing..  it has a big white plastic ring on it.. saying that this is a bleeder screw..  the plastic ring cracks and as the coolant heats it dribbles out and boils off.. when the engine is shut down.. instead of pulling coolant in from the overflow bottle.. air is pulled in thru the cracked plastic ring.. so the engine is restarted with air trapped in the cooling system..

this causes issues as the thermostat does not open properly with only air in contact .. it also allows hot spots in the engine..

a single overheating episode can ruin the head gaskets..

as the aluminum expands in the hot spots when there is a lack of coolant or pressure, this crushes the head gasket.. except they are multi layer steel.. they don't crush much.. but the head distorts.. this leaves the pressure on the gasket uneven.. so combustion can leak thru ..

i did the heads on a 97 3.8 tbird.. when i broke the head head bolts loose.. some were way loose..  the overheating had stretched the head bolts also..

i personally won't do head gaskets without using a thin layer of hylomar on both sides of the gasket..  but most dealers won't do that.. as the instructions say to do it dry..

there is also a specific torque sequence to the head bolts that quite complex..

i had to reset the torque wrench a bunch of times by the time i got the heads on.. and i pulled with a 24" breaker bar to set the final twist amount.. that got challenging.. as i had to take the socket off the breaker bar after the first quarter turn and turn the socket 1/4 turn on the breaker bar.. so i could get a second even pull to equal half a turn..

i don't know off the top of my head what the torque sequence is on your motor..  

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wayne712222
User
Posts: 127
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 01/19/14 02:42 PM

oh... finding warrantee issues is assigned to almost blind techs.. until after the warrantee expires..  

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JSchnittke
New User
Posts: 4
Joined: 01/14
Posted: 01/19/14 02:54 PM

Thanks again Wayne.
Wouldn't my temp gauge in the car show it was over heating?
It always runs at normal running temp.
Anyway, I did purchase a new aluminum Thermostat housing to replace the stock plastic one that seems to be a problem on these cars, also a new thermostat and temp sensor. When I get the Rad I'll get those parts installed at the same time.
Then I can do the tests you suggested.  

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