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Item Posts    Sort Order

1966 running hot and hard to start after its hot

 
Classic65
User
Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 09/04/13 04:07 PM

So I have a new 4 row aluminum Radiator 17"w x 16" core reg size with a 7 blade flex fan, Running 185 thermostat. I would not think of driving in this So cal weather this month. 101 today...Sweet lord!

Car gets up to about 230 in traffic and never cools down. When I shut it off, it won't start it labors to turn, even when its 80 out car still gets hot, Motor is new everything else is new. no leaks 50/50 coolant.  

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is the most frustrating thing ever!  

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waynep712222
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Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 09/04/13 09:20 PM

are you running an undersized crank pulley????

swap up to a 192 thermostat.. and at least 50% coolant to water blend..

you might also need to increase the blade size on the flex fan...

there are 3 options from compressor works

983617 Zps30f46a24

983567 Zps6d91ea1b

983717 Zpsc4ad6053

i have a 66 fairlane over for a similar issue.. i dropped in the 180 and its still getting the hot light on.. its not boiling over..

i know the radiator has some crud in some of the tubes.. but i cannot find my infrared thermometer.. i even got one with the head on a flex shaft.. so i could get it into hard to reach places... like bent 90 degrees and run across the radiator..  since its a copper radiator.. its going to a shop a few miles away to get rodded out.. the local shops want almost as much as a new radiator..

by the way.. i have never seen a 185 thermostat..


what i think is happening.. is the cooling system cannot cool off enough and the thermostat hangs open.. letting the circulation go around faster and faster and the fan cannot cool moving coolant thru the radiator..  

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waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 09/04/13 09:46 PM

how about going to 2 gauge battery cables..  supply the starter motor more current..

looks like they are available at most parts stores...

12 inch positive to the solenoid..

32 inch negative to the block...

40 inch starter solenoid to starter motor...  

you will want to have a cable from the negative post to the body..

and one from the engine to the body.. usually a braided at the firewall..

i used to get mine made up by a truck electrical  alternator shops..

napa.. there are so many options...

your car might have 6 gauge cables on it now...   4 gauge are easy as are 2 gauge..  

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70bird
User
Posts: 86
Joined: 07/13
Posted: 09/04/13 11:20 PM

how far is eng bored?

is it high perf?

headers?

what brand is rad or a link to it?

do you have ac?

is this with ac on or off?

do you have a fan shroud?

fixed or clutch fan?



if you do not have a mechanical temp gauge either get one or use an infra red behind the t stat housing.

install 192 t stat as suggested but get a high flow one from summit etc.

reduce anti freeze to 20% anti freeze, 1 bottle water wetter, water.

get a stock shroud from drake if you do not have one. you will need 4 row mounting bkts.

when it turns over slowly simply remove coil wire and try. if it still turns over slowly it is likely heat soak on your starter or weak battery. get battery tested at parts store.  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 09/07/13 08:43 AM

70bird

Its bored 40 over stroked 347 with Headers and Absolute Radiator 4 core 17"
NO AC don't have a fan shroud or clutch fan, I was told maybe use a 68 20" radiator and a clutch fan with shroud and should work well.
I used to run a 195 with a Electric fan and still gets Hot so I changed back to a flex fan instead thinking it might help.. No such luck  

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70bird
User
Posts: 86
Joined: 07/13
Posted: 09/07/13 09:53 AM

BUY A 1717P FLEX-LITE FIXED BLADE FAN FROM SUMMIT.


there are no specs on you rad on their site. might need a northern brand 2 row with 1" tubes or a dual pass rad from cool craft.

if you have a summit brand water pump or other  reversible pump change it.


FROM PREVIOUS POST

if you do not have a mechanical temp gauge either get one or use an infra red behind the t stat housing.

install 192 t stat as suggested but get a high flow one from summit etc.

reduce anti freeze to 20% anti freeze, 1 bottle water wetter, water.

get a stock shroud from drake if you do not have one. you will need 4 row mounting bkts.

when it turns over slowly simply remove coil wire and try. if it still turns over slowly it is likely heat soak on your starter or weak battery. get battery tested at parts store.  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 09/09/13 05:07 AM

I have a Flex fan the second one in the photo above 6 Blade

i have a new water pump not summit, Drake pump

my gauge is mechanical

the thermostat is a high flow from summit it is a 180, used to have a 195 from summit.

i will change the fluid content to less coolant and more water

now its 50 50 mix
thank you for the information  

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waynep712222
User
Posts: 223
Joined: 04/13
Posted: 09/09/13 10:02 PM

is hot hard starting an issue ???.

or is overheating an issue???



got a thick set of jumper cables...     when it fails to start hot...

hook up both jumper cables from the negative battery terminal   and the other two ends on the engine block...  see if it will crank then...

you could have several issues... undersized cables.. loose connection.. thermally damaged starter... paint on the starter nose.. paint on the  bell housing  end of the block that will reduce the current passing thru to the starter nose...



you can also run a voltage drop test..   got  a digital volt meter...

A.  test from the negative battery post to the engine block..

B.  test from the negative battery post to the starter housing..

C. test from the positive post to the battery cable side of the solenoid stud.

D. test from the positive post to the cable going down to the starter..

E.  test from the positive post to the stud on the side of the starter..

you should expect less than 0.9 volts on any of the tests above while you are cranking the engine ..  thats 9/10ths of a volt..

this test will take you about 10 minutes..

try test A and B with the jumper cables installed between the negative post and the engine block.

you can also take it someplace..  that has a battery. alternator. starter tester..

the test for them to run is with the amp clamp on the wire going to the starter..
the volt meter clamps on the battery posts...

should be less than 150 amps to start turning the motor..  might be 160.. its been a while.

i can drag out my VAT 40.. if you ever drive past my area..  

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70bird
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Posts: 86
Joined: 07/13
Posted: 09/10/13 12:30 AM

you must use the 190 t stat not the 180. it will never have a chance of cooling with a 180 unless it is 30 degrees outside.  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 09/15/13 11:00 AM

I assume the running Hot is the Issue,

Then comes the hard to start when its Hot

I went out and got a New Champion 4 core 20" radiator and a fan shroud. to start with no less then a bigger radiator should help alot. I will also place the Battery in the truck now since the tray won't work with a 20" wide core. New Heavy duty cables will also be installed from the battery  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 09/15/13 11:01 AM

Agreed using a 190 T stat now with New Radiator  

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Classic65
User
Posts: 87
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 09/29/13 08:20 AM

Looks like the problem is solved, New 22" 4 core rad with shroud and 6 blade fan
180 thermostat, seems to run great now never over 190 at lights then back down to 175 when driving.

Now all i need to do is get a heat blanket for the Starter so when it hot it will start easier
Thanks for all the information and help guys  

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