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Granada disc brake conversion issues

Posts: 83
Joined: 11/08
Posted: 04/13/14 04:54 PM

the original was power drum brakes. I converted it to disc
So for the last 4 years I have had no issues with the conversation, then one day the pedal goes down like I lost a line or something. Had the booster checked works fine Bleed all lines and checked no leaks. So took the master down and I was told the seals had flipped or mushroomed, so they install new rubber seal which they told me the chinese ones were wrong too large and thats why they failed. Funny worked just fine up till now. So took rebuilt master and bench bleed it and installed it, Now the brakes are awful can't even lock up the rear brakes and the pedal is spongy...car is not safe to drive at this point even at 30mph can't make the car stop on a dime it roles slowly to a stop.......and idea's ?? before I pull my hair out or Sell it ........
Yea I have check the vacuum 17 pounds....  

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Posts: 127
Joined: 10/13
Posted: 04/13/14 09:52 PM

go down and get a new master cylinder for it..

but.. i would like to know.. if you had a problem with the cap seal being WAY HUGE and floppy...   you could have gotten the INCORRECT Fluid into the system at some point recently...  some cross contamination from the power steering ..

have you had your car serviced anywhere. or did anybody else check the brake fluid.. top it off with something that was NOT from a sealed bottle of brake fluid..

power steering fluid will cause the seals to swell like crazy..
transmission fluid also. but that leaves a read tell tail.

if your master cylinder seals were swollen up.. then the rest of the system is damaged..  master  again unless you completely flushed the entire system with a significant amount of fresh brake fluid first..     prop valve..   front and rear brake hoses..     calipers rebuilt..     or calipers and wheel cylinders.

please.. dispose of any OPEN containers of brake fluid...  

do you have any enemies??? or spiteful people in your life??    or teenage children who have access to your car..

and even though you are the only one using the brake fluid..

decades ago.. at a friends shop.. that was shared with a body shop..  the body shop would come over and just take his LMA-GT brake fluid that is specific for english cars..  and use it up.. leaving the empty can..  at that point it was like 25 bucks a gallon.. and dot 3 was about 5 a gallon..  so he spiked it.. with clear power steering fluid..  and he never used it out of that can..   funny..  they never said a thing.. but quit stealing his fluid..  i would not have done that...

there are also instances.. of cross contamination at oil change shops.. where a dispenser was used in power steering. or a disgruntled employee  spiked the brake fluid before he left.. or even as he was rolling out his tool boxes after being fired.

please drain your existing brake fluid from the car.. into a CLEAN glass bottle..

examine it for oil..  brake fluid is glycerene and alcohol..   if you put water in the bottle with the old fluid.. or shake it and take a sample and put that in another clean glass container and add some water. shake that and you should NOT find any OIL.. floating on the surface..

i ran into a lady in the local gas station.. she was checking the fluids in her 3 or 4 year old range rover..  i warned her to be sure of what she is putting in which reservoir.. she thanked me.. told me she had just made that mistake.. it cost 5 grand to get the brake hydraulics including the anti lock control head all replaced..  because she had screwed up and yes.. put power steering fluid into the brake master..

i saw a guy one day in another gas station.. fill his washer bottle with water at the gas station hose.. he then topped off the radiator bottle.. then pulled the oil filler cap off the valve cover and filled the engine with water..  he then jumped in and attempted to start it.   talk about exxon valdez.. milky oil spread out all over the gas station driveway.  

tear down.. rig a way to wash the brake lines all out with brake fluid.. i like to use anhydrous alcohol.  then be sure to blow it all out first.. this is just thru the hard lines.. NOT THRU ANY rubber components..   no hoses.. no prop valve.. not the master.. not the calipers or wheel cylinders..

pick up some inverted flair unions in 1/4 inch and in 3/16 inverted flair.. and some lengths of brake tubing that is already flared.. so you can screw the tubes to the hard lines and extend them into a gallon jug to catch any spray and liquid..

if there is a ridge around any or your rotor surfaces.. or inside the wear on your drums..  have the rotors and drums machined.. or replaced.  new pads and shoes..  

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Posts: 343
Joined: 11/09
Posted: 04/24/14 07:07 AM

another thing to check is if you have a dual master cylinder, is that the lines are hooked up correctly too, the larger brake fluid chamber is for the front brakes, if thats ok could be the residual valve is not holding for the rear brakes..  

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